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RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch question..
Hi Jim,
On the K250 the outside diameter of the hatch land is 25" and the
outside diameter of the coning tower is 24".
Rgds,
Alec
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of Jim Kocourek
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 6:36 AM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch question..
Hi Alec,
This might be a bit of the subject, but if I remember right, I think you
had an acrylic dome on top of your hatch.
What is the outside diameter of the base of the hatch and what is the
outside diameter of the conning tower itself.
I am planning on building a similar arrangement and this info will help.
I remember many people talking about 24 inches, but am not sure of where
these dimensions are coming from.
Thanks in advance.
Best Regards,
Jim Kocourek
----- Original Message -----
From: "Smyth, Alec" <Alec.Smyth@compuware.com>
To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 1:56 PM
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch question..
I think you'll be fine because the K350 hatch dome is more centered on
the SS ring. Mine is a bit closer to the outside of the ring, which
means the inside welds had much greater leverage than the outside ones,
and therefore pulled the inside endge of the SS ring up into the dome.
Sorry, this is a bit hard to follow without a drawing!
Alec
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of James
Frankland
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 12:50 PM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch question..
Hi Alec.
I intend to machine both hatch and tower ring once they are finished. I
think i will try and clamp it somehow as i dont want to have to machine
off to much material. Perhaps it would have been better to have got the
rings slightly thicker to allow for more aggressive machining. But to
late now.
I will rig up some sort of clamp and just go steady round with welding,
trying to spread out the heat. Not sure there is much else i can do. I
am just about to weld the stainless ring to the tower...lets hope that
goes ok.
James
----- Original Message -----
From: "Smyth, Alec" <Alec.Smyth@compuware.com>
To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 3:36 PM
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch question..
Actually I just thought about what I emailed and of course you would
machine it after welding with either the clamped or un-clamped approach.
I hope that didn't mislead anyone.
Alec
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From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of James
Frankland
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 8:55 AM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch question..
Hi All.
Seems a bit quiet on the message board these days, so ive got a question
to ask everyone.!
Im building my hatch at the moment. I was really worried about causing
distortion so had to make a flatbed to hold it down for welding. I have
nearly finished welding the hatch ring to the dish. Just one last run
to go. But, I'm worried about the weld on the inside that i have to do
next. I know Alec had some problems with his and i am anxious to avoid
the same issues.
I've got no idea how i could cramp the hatch down upside down to hold it
flat. If i just weld it now as it is, do you think it will distort? Do
i need to make something to cramp it flat?
Its all gone really well so far so i don't want to mess it up.
you can see how it went here.
http://www.guernseysubmarine.com/index_files/Page6935.htm
Many thanks
James
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