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       HI Brent, i put the 
pictures on psubs projects.  Les K 
  ----- Original Message -----  
  
  
  Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2009 3:35 PM 
  Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Side 
  Thruster Options 
  
 
 
  Hi  Les,   I'll be interested in seeing your 
  pictures, and take some of your seals arrangement as well if you get a 
  chance.   I read about the Captain 
  retrieving his K-250 that he lost to the locker when the dome pooped out, by 
  attaching a short length of garden hose to the open snorkel valve and then 
  have the hose go to the bottom of the sub while he was in SCUBA gear. Then he 
  released the drop weight and opened a valve just a crack from the high 
  pressure air system and got out and had to quickly close and clamp the hatch 
  shut to make the sub drain and resurface. I don't remember George talking 
  about filling the MBTs with air from the high pressure tanks or from a free 
  flowing SCUBA regulator outside the sub, and under the tanks. If he had then 
  wouldn't of needed to release the drop weight to make up for any 
  remaining water in the sub not being completely siphoned out.   From what I read, I think the sub 
  was in less then forty feet of water, so I'm not sure why he didn't just 
  stay in the sub while it was draining, move the hose around to get almost all 
  the water out, fill the MBT's, then completely drain the VBT and surface 
  without dropping the drop weight.  If need be he could surface at a 
  controlled rate for decompression stops using the VBT and/or thrusters in the 
  vertical position.   I was wanting a way to easily and 
  completely drain the sub without having a tube running down to the bottom if 
  possible, or having a basic valve sticking up just above the very bottom of 
  the sub, meaning that there would be water left in the sub after draining down 
  to the top of the valve.   Carsten and/or Emile, how many 
  PSI above external water pressure do you expect for it take 
  for the type of spring you have on your large over pressure 
  plate valve on the KSS to open?
 
  Regards, Szybowski
 
 
    > 
  From: lesmarki@triton.net > To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org > 
  Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Side Thruster Options > Date: Sat, 13 Jun 
  2009 20:19:02 -0400 >  > the snorkel valve is all you need, if you 
  do build up pressure you have to  > let it out very slow or you get a 
  headache for a few weeks,,I know, been  > there done that,. I'm 
  uploading some pictures of my new sub project. Made a  > test piece for 
  the seals in my dogs for the hatch and motor swivels. test to  > 50psi 
  no leeks with the u-block seal,,same seal in hydraulic hose's. making  > 
  rear MBT, same as last sub, easy build-nice shape, 3 days at the most.Going 
   > to cut my trolling motor controls to fit in a box, 2 side by side and 
  make  > levers just like the gear shifters for a twin screw 
  boat. > The more that gets done the excitement mounts-hope to be in the 
  water at  > the end of summer, you can't buy lead in this state anymore 
  so I'm  > collecting dead batteries. any thought's . Les K > 
   > ----- Original Message -----  > From: 
  <MerlinSub@t-online.de> > To: 
  <personal_submersibles@psubs.org> > Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2009 
  7:00 PM > Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Side Thruster Options > 
   >  > It will not work as over pressure vale.. >  > 
  vbr Carsten >  > "Brent Hartwig" <brenthartwig@hotmail.com> 
  schrieb: > > > > > > > > Hello 
  Alec, > > > > Your reminded me of one reason I didn't wish 
  to go with air compensated  > > thrusters. It was a slow bleed into 
  the interior of a K-250 that George  > > was running, that made the 
  hatch dome pop out when he started to ascend,  > > and he was lucky 
  to of survived. This is also why I plan to install a over  > > 
  pressure valve much like the larger one that is installed on the KSS.  > 
  > Except I'll be mounting mine in the bottom of the sub so it can also be 
   > > used to drain the sub after a wet exit training 
  exercise. > > > > > > > > Regards, > 
  > Szybowski > > > > > > > > > 
  > Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Side Thruster Options > > Date: 
  Fri, 12 Jun 2009 09:14:20 -0400 > > From: 
  Alec.Smyth@compuware.com > > To: 
  personal_submersibles@psubs.org > > > > > > > 
  > > > > > > > > > > > > 
  > > > > > > > > > > > Hi 
  Dan, > > > > I recall a past thread in the past on this 
  topic, it > > must be in the archives. Mine were air compensated when 
  I bought Snoopy  > > but > > I switched to oil because the 
  way the air compensation was originally > > implemented, a little air 
  bled into the cabin raising the interior > > pressure. So I've run 
  the same exact motors in both air and oil. I cannot > > tell the 
  slightest difference. They seem to have exactly the same power,  > > 
  and > > even make exactly the same sound. In retrospect, I wish I'd 
  measured the  > > current > > draw so I could compare that, 
  but I'm afraid it's too late. Either method  > > works > > 
  just fine. > > > > > > thanks, > > > 
  > Alec > > > > > > > > > 
  > > > > > > > The contents of this e-mail are 
  intended for the named addressee only. It  > > contains information 
  that may be confidential. Unless you are the named  > > addressee or 
  an authorized designee, you may not copy or use it, or  > > disclose 
  it to anyone else. If you received it in error please notify us  > > 
  immediately and then destroy it. > > > > > > From: 
  owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org > > 
  [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of Dan > > 
  H. > > Sent: Friday, June 12, 2009 8:08 AM > > To: > 
  > personal_submersibles@psubs.org > > Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] 
  Side > > Thruster Options > > > > > 
  > > > If I were to do it again I would also go with a 
  Minkota > > or similar for me thrusters. I built mine from standard 
  DC > > motors. They're ambient pressure inside and have ceramic 
  shaft > > seals. It was a lot to go through and not cheep when all 
  was done. > > The worse is the weight of them. > > > 
  > Speed controllers aren't really necessary on fractional > > 
  horse powered thrusters like side thrusters because of the mass of the > 
  > sub. It doesn't react fast. Just pulsing them on and off is > > 
  sufficient. Where I do recommend a speed controller is on the rear > 
  > thruster so you can slowly cruse, skimming the bottom. > 
  > > > Has anyone done any experimenting with oil filling > 
  > thrusters to determine if there is an increase in electrical current draw 
   > > or > > reduction in thrust do to the drag of the 
  swirling oil and maybe some  > > floating > > of the 
  brushes? > > > > Dan H. > > > > > 
  > > > > > ----- Original Message -----  > > 
  From: > > glen > > brown > > To: 
  personal_submersibles@psubs.org > > > > Sent: Friday, June 
  12, 2009 5:05 AM > > Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Side > > 
  Thruster Options > > > > > > Hi Brent > > 
  I am also planning on using Min Kota 's on my K350 I am > > also 
  thinking of splitting my front mbt for better view of my hydraulic > 
  > manipulator you got any thoughts. > > All the best > > 
  glen south Africa > > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
   > > From: > > Brent Hartwig > > To: 
  PSUBSorg > > Sent: Friday, June 12, 2009 12:23 > > 
  AM > > Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Side Thruster > > 
  Options > > > > > > > > Greetings 
  James, > > > > I'm also planning > > on installing 
  small mostly off the shelf thrusters on the sides of my  > > K 
  boat > > to reduce drag and simplify things. I've been planning on 
  using 36 > > volt Minn Kota 101 saltwater thrusters, like Frank, and 
  I believe  > > Vance are > > using and oil compensate them. 
  Last I checked those thruster were > > running $250 each with the 
  speed controllers going for $150 > > each. > > > > 
  I'll have to check my notes, but I believe Karl Stanley > > is using 
  6 of the 36 volt Minn Kota saltwater thruster that he has oil > > 
  compensated, and has used down to 2500 fsw. Two for vertical thrust > 
  > and four in the stern. Are you expecting to go that deep James. 
  ;} > > > > I > > like the idea of using the 
  existing flexible shafts on some motors  > > that Alec > > 
  mentioned. I expected that I would clamp mine on in a similar manor as 
   > > Frank > > has done, since I'm not sure of the long term 
  saltwater durability of  > > my > > favorite brand of duck 
  tape. > > > > I see the need to beef up the side 
  thru > > hulls, and was planning on looking closely at how Dan beefed 
  his up.  > > With > > the new tangle guard configuration I'm 
  planning, I don't expect the > > thrusters will sustain any real 
  damage unless the Euronaut or the like  > > plays > > to 
  rough with my sub. > > > > Regards, > > 
  Szybowski > > > > > > > > > > 
  > Subject: RE: > > [PSUBS-MAILIST] Subdate > > > Date: 
  Thu, 11 Jun 2009 17:46:21 > > -0400 > > > From: 
  Alec.Smyth@compuware.com > > > To: > > 
  personal_submersibles@psubs.org > > > > > > Hi 
  James, > > > > > > > > 1. Do people just buy 
  the standard Minn Kota outboard motor complete > > > > > 
  with the bracket, leg, controls, handle, battery etc and just modify > 
  > the > > > motor part? or can you get just the motor and prop 
  on its > > own? > > > > > > AS: You can buy 
  just the parts you need cheaper than > > the whole thing, I > 
  > > recommend www.trollingmotorparts.com. > > > > 
  > > > > > > > 2. Whats the through hull design? A 
  straight forward twin > > O ring > > > through hull on 
  the outboard shaft? > > > > > > AS: I > > 
  would not go with the standard pipe because it just isn't strong. > > 
  > In > > fact some motors come with plastic pipes designed to be 
  flexible so > > > > > the shaft bends when you hit 
  something, rather than break off. On > > the > > > side 
  thrusters, I've got heavy through-hulls. I did use the > > stock 
  pipe > > > on the stern thruster, because that one doesn't 
  go > > through the hull. The > > > through-hulls are just 
  a SS bar stock with an > > external shoulder to > > > 
  prevent the thing from being pushed in, and > > bored to whatever 
  minimum > > > inside diameter you need for the cables > > 
  and potting. Do not just pot the > > > cables, you have to put in 
  solid > > conductors so the pressure doesn't wick > > > 
  along the cable strands. I'd > > recommend machining some vice flats 
  on the > > > through-hull too, for the > > day you need 
  to unscrew a thruster that's been > > > on there a few 
  years. > > > > > > > > > > > 3. 
  Compensation. Oil, ambient air pressure > > regulator? > > 
  > I've had both but like oil compensation the best because > > 
  it's the > > > simplest (not a single moving part). I just changed 
  the oil > > a couple of > > > days ago. I expected it to 
  be laden with carbon > > deposits, but it came > > > out 
  looking like new despite being in there > > for 4 years. Admittedly 
  I > > > put very few hours on the sub, but it > > still 
  surprised me that the oil > > > came out looking as clear as the 
  day > > it went in. And yes, it WAS oil not > > > water 
  that came out... > > > > > > > > :) > 
  > > > > > Alec > > > > > 
  > > > > > > > > > > > > 
  > No virus found in this incoming message. > > Checked by AVG 
  - > > www.avg.com > > Version: 8.0.339 / Virus Database: 
  270.12.63/2169 - Release > > Date: 06/11/09 05:53:00 > 
  > > > > > >  >  >  >  > 
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