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Vance, I am interested in your comment that “if flooded it
would stand the sub on its tail.” Is that a must to avoid? How many subs are able to have a
compartment flooded and not come up on some obscure angle? I.e. If a
battery pod is flooded would it not make a sub come up on its side so that
the hatch if opened would flood? I am not being facetious but concerned
about mine’s ability to come up with a compartment flooded. I haven’t
done the calcs yet but what designs would qualify as same. My philosophy
or belief was as long as you can get to the surface you are rescueable.
Interested in your comments on this one. Hugh From:
owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of vbra676539@aol.com You can't dfepend on neutral buoyany for a module as you describe.
It will need to have a variable ballast tank and fairwater tanks to hold the
unit up on the surface. Along with the controls for that system, you will need
intake and exhaust and cooling valves interconnected to the pressure hull
(or controlled in the module by reach rods), PLUS your electrical distribution
to the control panel for charging and/or hotel loads, including propulsion. AND
you will need an additional dropweight to offset the volume of your
propulsion/charging center, as it will be way aft of your CG/CB and might stand
the sub on its tail or thereabouts if flooded. Nothing to it. Vance -----Original Message----- Hi Jens. That's what I was thinking. We were sailing last weekend
on San Francisco Bay with a friend and his 26 foot boat has a little two
cylinder diesel motor. My thought was to use a pressure vessel with a bolt-on
end cap dome, and install a small diesel motor, generator, and fuel tank in it.
Make the "unit" completely separate from the cabin hull with a
"disk type" thru-hull for cable and controls. The unit could provide
power for running electric motors OR have a propeller shaft coming out the back
end ( OR both.) It would need to be neutrally buoyant as a unit so the sub
could dive even if it was removed. This "power module" could easily
be bolted to the sub and removed as a unit if it needed repair or maintenance.
Cooling would be an issue but if the motor was water cooled, just a water pump
and plumbing would be needed.....no radiator. The small two cylinder diesel on my friend's boat pushed his boat
at about 5 knots at 3/4 speed and he said it will run for days on a tank of
fuel. I think the motor brand was a "Universal". Probably made in
China but a quick search on Google would show what's available in a compact
motor that was water cooled. I designed my sub to accept a small 20 horse outboard on the rear
transom plate for long distance surface transit. The cables and wires will
pass through a small electrical thru-hull, and for steering the motor has a
link to the electric thrusters/rudders linkage. The outboard is small enough to
be put inside the sub if needed but most likely will be loaded onto the surface
boat when diving. A permanent diesel electric "module" seems like a fairly
simple thing to fabricate, and the sub could still be used with or without it. Frank D. __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
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