[PSUBS-MAILIST] Windows

Hugh Fulton hc.fulton at gmail.com
Sun Dec 15 14:20:30 EST 2013


A question for the experts. Is it acceptable to have old windows re-polished
and then possibly annealed to restore them.  I have 8 that are 25 years old
and need to be replaced according to ABS etc.

What is the official word on this.  I note that the windows below were from
an MBT rather than main windows.   Chs  Hugh

 

 

From: Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org]
On Behalf Of vbra676539 at aol.com
Sent: Monday, 16 December 2013 6:21 a.m.
To: personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] G.L. summary Pressure Hull

 

Very nice indeed. It's what I figured to do. Glad to hear it is a working
hypothesis. 

Vance



-----Original Message-----
From: hank pronk <hanker_20032000 at yahoo.ca>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Sent: Sun, Dec 15, 2013 12:13 pm
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] G.L. summary Pressure Hull

Vance,

I had the fellow who works for me buff one of the mbt windows.  he runs a
small body shop in our off season, so he is a pro at buffing.  I gave him
the most beat up window in the lot.  He brought it back to like new
condition.  There are a couple of deep scratches that are not worth worrying
about.  With water on both sides of the glass the scratches disappear.  I a
very confident the original port windows will be like new when he is
finished with them.  How nice is that

Hank

 

On Saturday, December 14, 2013 2:46:44 PM, hank pronk
<hanker_20032000 at yahoo.ca> wrote:

Vance,

I am sure it will be fine, it makes sense that the motor will draw down with
an increase of pressure acting on the shaft.

I am back to work on the manipulator now.  It is nice to have a change.

Hank

 

On Saturday, December 14, 2013 1:46:23 PM, Vance Bradley
<Vbra676539 at AOL.com> wrote:

Well, maybe a break in period will help, too.

Vance

Sent from my iPhone


On Dec 14, 2013, at 3:36 PM, hank pronk <hanker_20032000 at yahoo.ca> wrote:

Hi Vance,

Yes it is linear, it is a very smooth and gradual.  Everything spins freely.
I may have a bit to much grease on my thrust bearing also.  

Hank

 

On Saturday, December 14, 2013 1:26:10 PM, Vance Bradley
<Vbra676539 at AOL.com> wrote:

Linear meaning a steady increase in demand in parallel to rising pressure.
If you have a low rise with a sudden increase somewhere along the line then
you may have a component not working as it should.

Vance


Sent from my iPhone


On Dec 14, 2013, at 3:02 PM, hank pronk <hanker_20032000 at yahoo.ca> wrote:

Hi Vance,

I did not have it in the sub so it was not hooked up to the amp gauge.  What
do you mean by linear.

Hank

 

On Saturday, December 14, 2013 11:12:40 AM, Vance Bradley
<Vbra676539 at AOL.com> wrote:

How much did your amperage increase at depth? Was the load increase linear?

Vance

Sent from my iPhone


On Dec 14, 2013, at 1:07 PM, hank pronk <hanker_20032000 at yahoo.ca> wrote:

I just did a 1/2hr run on my new drive with the shaft tube full of water and
under 500psi.  The seal works perfectly and there is very little heat build
up.  I was surprised how much the motor pulls down after 200psi.  I assume
it is from the shaft pushing into the thrust bearing.  Also I am running the
motor on 12v because it spins to fast on 24 with no load.

Hank

 

On Thursday, December 12, 2013 1:27:28 PM, hank pronk
<hanker_20032000 at yahoo.ca> wrote:

Vance,

Thank you, it only took me two tries to make the assembly and 5 tries to
make the shaft.  Rookie machinist and all.  :-)

Hank 

 

On Thursday, December 12, 2013 12:36:27 PM, Alan
<alanlindsayjames at yahoo.com> wrote:

Carsten,

Your friends in Hamburg wouldn't be happy with the get wet solution.

As an after thought on my ambient, I put a AOP valve above my

head & through the dome. It works the opposite way round, so that if

I dive too quick & the hull doesn't equalise, I get water on my head.

The hull is equalised with divers regulators so better to get wet

than the regulator diaphragm rupturing.  The manual operation of the

AOP let's me flood up to the top of the dome in an emergency exit,

as there may be too much force on the latches to open them with

air in the dome. 

Alan

 


Sent from my iPad


On 13/12/2013, at 7:33 AM, " " <MerlinSub at t-online.de> wrote:

	

If you have an over-pressure valve handle obstructing the Alan

movement of the hatch latch handle, it would need to be

spring loaded or you would create the problem of the possibility

of diving with the valve open later on.


Yes, and if you dive with a open valve you get wet
learn to close it and learn to read you "pre-dive" checklist. 

:-O   

SL not required an blocking mechanism on the hatch - just an 
simple spring loaded automatic overpressure valve. 
Because of the automatic there is no need to block the hatch. 
The air sound of the working valve is a clear signal not to open the hatch.
The function of the valve should be anyway mention in the written manual. 

very best regards

Carsten

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