[PSUBS-MAILIST] T-Rex Thrusters & Cooling

[vbra676539 at aol.com]

Truthfully, Jon, I wouldn't use the caps at all. I'd be more prone to ask Cliff or somebody to figure a no-deflection flat disc for that diameter at test depth and machine a better o-ring arrangement into them for whatever cylinder length is required. Weld the front one, and use the back one as the closure end AND mounting plate for the motor., with the seal tube welded outboard. I'm betting you would cut the housing weight down substantially, and make the thing much easier to service.
Vance


-----Original Message-----
From: Jon Wallace <jon.wallace at yahoo.com>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Sent: Thu, Oct 10, 2013 7:08 am
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] T-Rex Thrusters & Cooling



My foremost advice would be not to use the "spin-on" design that George came up 
with for the propeller end of the can.  I had a hell of a time getting them off 
after extended non-use, lots of penetrating oil and a three foot crowbar.  I 
think a better design is the one that LakeDiver uses which pulls the two halves 
together via three equidistant bolts.  See http://www.psubs.org/convention/2003/pics.cgi?pics/k350-2/PDR_0073.JPG



--------------------------------------------
On Thu, 10/10/13, Joe Perkel <josephperkel at yahoo.com> wrote:

 Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] T-Rex Thrusters & Cooling
 To: "Personal Submersibles General Discussion" <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
 Date: Thursday, October 10, 2013, 2:45 AM
 
 Jon, I
 was intigued by the condition of the motors on the K-600
 after thier long entombment. 
  So as
 a result, I'm currently studying his design as well
 as off-the-shelf examples while looking at ways to
 incorporate homebuilding with more modern materials and
 components. Joe 
  

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