[PSUBS-MAILIST] Group Help Request
Marc de Piolenc
piolenc at archivale.com
Tue Oct 29 07:59:15 EDT 2013
A Kort nozzle is a ducted propeller - known by the name of the inventor
of that particular application.
Marc
On 10/29/2013 4:08 AM, Joe Perkel wrote:
> Yes Carsten, very hopeful moneywise!
> But, I wonder if this is a shrouded/ducted prop as opposed to an
> accurate Kort Nozzle. But, perhaps it may not matter in the end if all
> one wants is a prop guard.
> I am going to see what different configurations of the Kort Nozzle bring
> in terms of material cost.
> Joe
>
> *From:* "MerlinSub at t-online.de" <MerlinSub at t-online.de>
> *To:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> *Sent:* Monday, October 28, 2013 3:19 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Group Help Request
>
> http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Brand-New-300W-Motor-Powered-Sea-Scooter-Underwater-propeller-Diving-Assistant/336556698.html
>
> Inside Diameter of the Kortnozzle is 250mm or 9,84 something inch.
>
> Protection grid forward and aft are just fix with clips.
>
> vbr Carsten
>
>
>
> Alec,
>
> Don't count it out just yet, I went to Gavin via the link you
> provided and had an epiphany! Note well the inside surface vs the
> outside surface of that Kort nozzle!!
>
> The model I quoted was solid material!!
>
> I know what I'm doing tonight!
>
> Joe
>
> Sent from Yahoo! Mail for iPad
>
>
> *From: *Alec Smyth <alecsmyth at gmail.com>;
> *To: *Personal Submersibles General Discussion
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>;
> *Subject: *Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Group Help Request
> *Sent: *Mon, Oct 28, 2013 5:28:50 PM
>
> Sounds like David has just saved me the work of taking a 101 apart
> and measuring it, thanks! As for the 101 prop size, it's 11"
> diameter. Before you go off spending $760 on a nozzle, you might
> want to look up these folks: http://www.gavinscooters.com/ I
> can't help notice Emile used a Gavin, and it looks like Gavin
> Scooters, Inc. is right in your neighborhood.
>
> Best,
>
> Alec
>
>
> On Mon, Oct 28, 2013 at 12:43 PM, Joe Perkel
> <josephperkel at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> David,
> Thats spectacular, thanks!
> Joe
>
> *From:* David Colombo <seaquestor at gmail.com>
>
> *To:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> *Sent:* Monday, October 28, 2013 12:12 PM
>
> *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Group Help Request
>
> Hey Joe,
> I will send you my cad files on the Minkota 101 Saltwater. I
> have measured my new 101s and weed 2 prop. I have also worked
> out the Marin 37 Kort nozzel design and attachment to the
> thruster for use on the SeaQuestor project. I will be most
> likely sending it to my fiberglass fabricator who will cut the
> assembly in foam on their 5 axis cnc, ready for a fiberglass
> overlay.
>
>
> Best Regards,
> David Colombo
>
> 804 College Ave
> Santa Rosa, CA. 95404
> (707) 536-1424
> http://www.seaquestor.com/
>
>
>
> On Mon, Oct 28, 2013 at 8:03 AM, <jimtoddpsub at aol.com> wrote:
>
> Joe,
> Since you asked: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cast_urethanes
> Jim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe Perkel <josephperkel at yahoo.com>
> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> Sent: Mon, Oct 28, 2013 9:54 am
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Group Help Request
>
> Ok gentlemen first round of quotes for a Marin 19A Nozzle
> only in ABS plastic (White) for a 6" prop and not accounting
> for prop clearance is $760. This is using FDM process.
> Same nozzle in cast urethane,.. $ 3,700,.. what is cast
> urethane? Dont want it anyway!!!
> I need to know the exact diameter of a Weedless wedge 2 prop
> for a 4" motor in order to get the quote exact.
> Joe
>
> *From:* hank pronk <hanker_20032000 at yahoo.ca>
> *To:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> *Sent:* Monday, October 28, 2013 10:28 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Group Help Request
>
> Scott,
> I use weights from a weight lifting set, the steel ones.
> They could go outside on a peg so to speak. The only
> problem is you want them at the bottom of the sub. That
> means hauling the sub unless you want to get wet. Maybe a
> slide system. I thought the same thing to put the air
> outside, that would kill my sleek and slippery-ness. :-)
> Hank
>
> *From:* swaters <swaters at waters-ks.com>
> *To:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> *Sent:* Monday, October 28, 2013 7:46:30 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Group Help Request
> Hatch closure from both sides deffenetly a good one. I would
> say adjustable exterior weights. I hate the idea on chucking
> weights on the floor and then sitting on them. I am torn
> between that and moving the hp air tanks to the exterior to
> allow alot more room on the inside.
> Thanks,
> Scott Waters
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my U.S. Cellular© Smartphone
> hank pronk <hanker_20032000 at yahoo.ca> wrote:
> Joe,
> Why don't you take a vote on what the best improvement
> would be for a k sub or alike. My vote would be for a hatch
> closure from both sides.
> Hank
>
> *From:* Joe Perkel <josephperkel at yahoo.com>
> *To:* "personal_submersibles at psubs.org"
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> *Sent:* Monday, October 28, 2013 5:41:42 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Group Help Request
> I just love the world in which we live! Look what I found
> while waiting to take my daughter to school,..
> http://www.quickparts.com/QuickQuote.aspx
>
> Isn't that just the coolest thing! The Star Trek
> synthesizer in the real world.
>
> Joe
>
> Sent from Yahoo! Mail for iPad
>
> *From: *Marc de Piolenc <piolenc at archivale.com>; *To:
> *<personal_submersibles at psubs.org>; *Subject: *Re:
> [PSUBS-MAILIST] Group Help Request *Sent: *Mon, Oct 28, 2013
> 10:46:58 AM
> Never thought much about doing it at small scale.
>
> I suppose I would set up something like a wood lathe or a
> potter's wheel
> and work in some very soft material like low-density foam.
> Once I had
> the shape that I wanted, I suppose one could pour a mold
> around the
> master, melt or dissolve out the pattern and cast the final
> part in some
> suitable plastic, or even in aluminum if you were ambitious.
>
> 3D printing seems like the ultimate way to do it, though -
> the accuracy
> available is already better than what we would need, and if
> the inital
> results are not perfect, making changes and printing out
> another
> prototype is very quick.
>
> Marc
>
> On 10/28/2013 6:13 PM, Joe Perkel wrote:
> > How can a home builder maintain that contour 360 Deg out
> of "X" material?
> >
> > Joe
> >
> > Sent from my overpriced
> > iPhone
> >
> > On Oct 28, 2013, at 2:57 AM, Marc de Piolenc
> <piolenc at archivale.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Quick clarification: a properly contoured Kort nozzle,
> MARRIED TO A MATCHING PROPELLER, will increase static and
> low-speed thrust. Of course it won't increase power,
> since that comes from your motor. If you just put a shroud
> around your existing prop, you will be disappointed, and a
> shroud that doesn't do the job is overpriced unless
> it's free! Key ingredients for success:
> >>
> >> Prop matched to the shroud
> >> Shroud matched to the speed and thrust requirement of
> the vehicle
> >> Motor matched to the resulting prop
> >>
> >> Marc
> >>
> >> On 10/28/2013 8:33 AM, Jon Wallace wrote:
> >>>
> >>> What is the cost of having a true Kort nozzle machined
> by a CNC? I think
> >>> a 30% improvement in thrust for $30 would be great but
> I suspect
> >>> machining a Kort is going to equate to many hundreds of
> dollars, if not
> >>> reaching beyond a thousand. When I look at the Snoopy
> underwater videos
> >>> it is difficult to imagine a kort nozzle really making
> any difference in
> >>> the operational experience given that the motors are
> operating very
> >>> slowly and pushing Snoopy around at about 2 knots
> (estimated). The
> >>> props are designed for power, but that's what we
> want underwater. True,
> >>> a kort nozzle would increase that power but what is the
> return on the
> >>> cost? In other words, on a road with a speed limit of
> 30mph and no
> >>> passing zones it doesn't matter whether you have a
> 1.6 liter or 5.4
> >>> liter engine under the hood does it?
> >> --
> >> Archivale catalog: http://www.archivale.com/catalog
> >> Polymath weblog: http://www.archivale.com/weblog
> >> Translations (ProZ profile):
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> >>
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> >
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> >
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> > -- Archivale catalog: http://www.archivale.com/catalog
> Polymath weblog: http://www.archivale.com/weblog
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>
>
> --
>
> Carsten Standfuß
> Dipl.Ing.Schiffbau @ Meerestechnik
> Heinrich Reck Str.12A
> 18211 Admannshagen
>
> 0172 8464 420
> WWW.Euronaut.org
> Carsten at euronaut.org
>
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