[PSUBS-MAILIST] Lights

[Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles]

Hi Jon,

I tried one side by side with a Trustfire just now and it's actually really
hard to tell. Its just that the Trustfire is a pencil thin beam and the new
ones are the exact opposite. That in itself should be an advantage for the
new ones. In a pinch, I'd say they are about the same total output, but
that's very very approximate. One thing I wonder about... the new lights
have a very wide operating range of voltage, they work with anything from
12V to 48V. I'm running them on 12V and wonder whether higher voltage would
equate to higher output.

To answer your other question, the mounting bracket is stainless. I'm
thoroughly impressed by the build quality, they didn't skimp on these.


Best,

Alec


On Wed, May 14, 2014 at 8:09 AM, Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

>  Alec,
>
> How does the light of both compare to your eyes?  They are both listed at
> about the same lumen output.  The Trustfire uses three 1000 lumen CREE
> led's whereas this floodlight uses sixteen 200 (or so) lumen led's.  I
> realize the trustfire is more of a spotlight but just curious how they
> match up as perceived by your eyes in terms of total light output.
>
> Jon
>
>
>
> On 5/14/2014 4:52 AM, James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles wrote:
>
> Hi Alec,
> Those lights on your link look good.  Let us know how you get on with your
> test next week, I and im sure others would be interested to know how they
> perform.
> Thanks
> James
>
>  On 13 May 2014 14:02, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>> I used Trustfire lights for a season on Snoopy but the experience was all
>> around bad. I bought two, one of which did not work due to a faulty
>> connection at the endcap (which acts like a switch). The factory shipped me
>> a new end-cap that fixed the problem. In fresh water they worked well, but
>> when I went to Islamorada last year they lasted less than a day in the salt
>> water. After just hours, one stopped working altogether and both lights
>> were very visibly corroded. Silly me, I hadn't thought this through. The
>> Trustfire lights close the circuit when you screw in the endcap on the
>> handle. They use the light body itself as a conductor, like a car uses its
>> chassis. I think the issue is that if you put two such lights in salt
>> water, you will get stray currents between them.
>>
>>  On next week's dive I'll be testing new lights, which are LED flood
>> lights intended for tractors or off road vehicles. I've been really
>> impressed with how solid these are. They are wired with two cables, rather
>> than using the light body as a ground. Second, they have a little screw
>> that serves no visible purpose, but which when removed allows you to fill
>> them with mineral oil. It took a while to get the last bubbles out, but
>> with patience you can fill these with oil and remove all bubbles in about
>> an hour. The front plastic has a little give to absorb the compression if I
>> have any bubbles left, but I think I have none. To fill them I used a
>> syringe with a "dispenser needle" which is a blunt syringe needle you use
>> for filling things rather than giving someone an injection. The lights are
>> IP67, so supposedly water-tight, but my only mod was to reinforce the cable
>> gland with some epoxy. We shall see how they work, but my hopes are up, I
>> think these might finally be the ideal sub lights and can be used virtually
>> off the shelf. I recommend not buying them until Snoopy returns from next
>> week's dive, but here is the link if you want to take a look in the
>> meantime.
>>
>>
>> http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Lights/DC-Mobile-Equipment-Lights/12-24-VDC-3120-LUMEN-16-LED-UTILITY-FLOOD-LIGHT-12-999-B.axd
>>
>>
>>  Best,
>>
>> Alec
>>
>>
>>
>
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