[PSUBS-MAILIST] Drawing of my 2-man sub

André Eriksen via Personal_Submersibles personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Mon Feb 2 15:55:27 EST 2015


Thank you for the input Alec.

I got a quote some time ago on the hemispheres.. around 1800 USD for the
both.

Have had the concern of distorted visibility with the acrylic dome, but
thought it would be allright since I never have heard complaints on it. I
might look into going with a taller tower and flat viewports. More
freeboard and better visibility quality is not a bad thing. My center of
gravity and bouyancy calculations show I have some flexibilty there.

André



2015-01-31 14:43 GMT+01:00 hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org>:

> Andre,
> I have a sub with an acrylic cylinder for the CT and the visibility is
> fantastic,
> Hank
> --------------------------------------------
> On Fri, 1/30/15, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>  Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Drawing of my 2-man sub
>  To: "Personal Submersibles General Discussion" <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>  Received: Friday, January 30, 2015, 10:27 PM
>
>  Hi
>  Andre,
>  Very nice drawing and
>  concept, I like the simplicity and it looks balanced. I
>  would have the following observations:
>  - Check that you can actually get
>  those hemispherical heads for a reasonable price.
>  Hemispherical heads are far less common than elliptical. I
>  was once shopping for endcaps and got the following quote:
>  "The elliptical is $300, the hemispherical is $300 plus
>  $4000 in tooling setup costs".
>  - Regarding the coning tower design
>  (K250 in this case) it depends what you want the sub for.
>  The problem with that tower is the low freeboard, which is
>  fine for lakes but insufficient for open water. You cannot
>  open a K250 hatch in the ocean in anything but flat calm
>  conditions. Also, visibility out of a K250 dome hatch is not
>  good, even though that might sound counter-intuitive. You
>  are looking through the side of a dome, which means poor
>  optics. The bow dome visibility will be wonderful, because
>  you're looking through the apex. Or, of course,
>  visibility of the surface will be good from the
>  coning tower, but one only uses that upon
>  surfacing.
>  - I would
>  not worry too much about the boat being top heavy. In
>  general, between low drop weights, low batteries, and high
>  MBTs these little boats are extremely stable. You should be
>  able to carry a significantly taller tower than that one
>  given the hull beneath it. I'm not saying you should
>  skip the stability calculations, I'm just saying I think
>  you will find that the calculations prove you can carry a
>  higher tower that will allow for flat viewports and increase
>  freeboard. Another option is to put a cylindrical viewport
>  on the K250 tower to bump it up. I haven't done that
>  myself, but it could be done.
>  Best,
>  Alec
>  On Fri, Jan 30, 2015 at
>  11:42 AM, André Eriksen <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>  wrote:
>  Hi
>  guys!
>  Finally I can
>  start building. Just rented a nice location outside town.
>  This is the drawing of the sub. I want to have 400meters
>  (1300ft) of max operating depth. The hull is 10mm
>  (3/8") S355J2 steel. The ABS hull calculator is giving
>  me 431,8m (1417ft) of depth, and 638,4m (2094ft) crush
>  depth. Still have som FEA to do. Have to learn to use a new
>  software since Autodesk Inventor don`t simulate buckling.
>  Any thoughts on the design?Do someone want to
>  confirm my calculations?Very excited to get
>  started!Sorry for the metric dimensions for you
>  who are not custom to them.
>  I had a hard time figuring out the
>  conning tower. I wanted it to go in one piece, but I want
>  all the freeboard I can get and not get it too top heavy.
>  Was thinking about going 20mm thick nozzle all the way up,
>  but thinking I might get in trouble welding in the hatch
>  seat ring. With 30mm I could do without welding in a seat
>  ring, but it would be too top heavy. So decided to go with
>  the Kittredge design, any thoughts on this?
>  Domes in top and front and saddle
>  tanks.
>  Emile:
>  If you still want to press domes for me, can you give me the
>  exact measurements I should have for the bow
>  ring?
>  -André
>
>
>
>
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-- 
Med Vennlig Hilsen / Regards
*André Eriksen*
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