[PSUBS-MAILIST] TEST!!!

Thu Jun 18 19:25:20 EDT 2015

Hearing you Ken.Alan
      From: Ken Martindale via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
 To: 'Personal Submersibles General Discussion' <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
 Sent: Friday, June 19, 2015 11:19 AM
 Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] TEST!!!

TEST!!!

-----Original Message-----
From: Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org] On Behalf Of via Personal_Submersibles
Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 4:28 PM
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Over Pressure Valve

How do you keep water from going back down the valve, and into the sub, if it opens when submerged?

Keith T

via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

>If the pressure differential exceeds the preset cracking  pressure, the 
>valve will open on its own to relieve the excess pressure.  If the pressure 
>differential is less than the cracking pressure, it would have  to be 
>opened manually.  If the differential were only slightly greater than  
>the preset cracking pressure, I suppose opening it manually would open  
>it wider for more rapid equalization on many types of valves.
>Jim
> 
> 
>In a message dated 6/18/2015 2:40:58 P.M. Central Daylight Time, 
>personal_submersibles at psubs.org writes:
>
> 
>Jim,
>          In that case  is it necessary to bump the sealed check valve 
>to make it open?
> 
> 
>Alec,  I guess what I meant to say was if the check valve is left in  
>an open line to the outside all the time, rather than being isolated by  
>another valve.
> 
>Brian
>
>--- personal_submersibles at psubs.org  wrote:
>
>From: via Personal_Submersibles  <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>To:  personal_submersibles at psubs.org
>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST]  Idea..?
>Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2015 14:53:15 -0400
>
>
>
>Brian, it also has to do with cracking pressure.  When  you surface the 
>sub might be slightly over pressure but not with enough  differential 
>to open the valve automatically.  That's when you open it  manually.  
>That would also equalize pressure if you have negative  pressure in the 
>sub to make it a whole lot easier to open the  hatch.
>Jim
> 
> 
>In a message dated 6/18/2015 1:40:32 P.M. Central Daylight Time, 
>personal_submersibles at psubs.org writes:
>
>It is nothing but a T shape sealed by a spring. If internal  pressure 
>builds up, it pushes the spring and the valve opens. So it is a  
>normally closed valve... but I suppose you could say its "open all the 
>time"  in the sense that anytime pressure builds up, it will open.
>
>On Thu, Jun 18, 2015 at 2:35 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles 
><_personal_submersibles at psubs.org_ 
>(mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org) >
>wrote:
>
>
>Couldn't you, theoretically,  have that valve open to the  outside all the 
>time?  
> 
>Brian
>
>--- _personal_submersibles at psubs.org_ 
>(mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org)  wrote:
>
>From: Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles 
><_personal_submersibles at psubs.org_ 
>(mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org) >
>To:  Personal Submersibles General Discussion 
><_personal_submersibles at psubs.org_ 
>(mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org) >
>Subject:  Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?
>Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2015 12:15:57  -0400
>
>
>
> 
>I think most have an OP valve, and I'd strongly encourage any  who 
>don't to put one in. If you read Kittredge's book, the lack of an OP  
>valve was the cause of the only K-boat accident so far. Fortunately  
>nothing happened to him, but Kittredge had a slow cabin air leak during  
>his dive and upon surfacing blew out the dome when just below the 
>surface.  He was blown out himself with it. The sub sank, and he 
>proceeded to  re-float it without losing beat. I use the OP valve 
>routinely to  equalize pressure so I can open the hatch easily. Just a 
>little push on  the stem does it. One thing about OP valves, they have 
>to be capable of  handling large flow rates. Don't use a little Swagelok check valve or such  small thing.
>
>
>Best,
>
>Alec
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>On Thu, Jun 18, 2015 at 10:55 AM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles 
><_personal_submersibles at psubs.org_ 
>(mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org) >
>wrote:
>
>Also  Alec,  I noticed your check valve overpressure valve in the  photo 
>section.  That seems like a great solution to the  problem!  I guess I was 
>not aware of that, does everybody  have one of those?
>
>
>Brian
>
>--- _personal_submersibles at psubs.org_ 
>(mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org)  wrote:
>
>From: hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles 
><_personal_submersibles at psubs.org_ 
>(mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org) >
>To:  Personal Submersibles General Discussion 
><_personal_submersibles at psubs.org_ 
>(mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org) >
>Subject:  Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?
>Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2015 05:25:30  -0700
>
>
>
>personally, I always avoid welding a machined part to the  hull.  I 
>weld a flange or nipple to the hull then bolt or thread  the machined part to that.
> This is my solution to a lack of  tooling and expertise.
>Hank  --------------------------------------------
>On Thu, 6/18/15, James  Frankland via Personal_Submersibles 
><_personal_submersibles at psubs.org_ (mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org) >  wrote:
>
>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?
>To:  "Personal Submersibles General Discussion" 
><_personal_submersibles at psubs.org_ 
>(mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org) >
>Received:  Thursday, June 18, 2015, 4:58  AM
>
>Hi
>Alec\Brian, Yes, maybe it  would
>push in.  A flat step would probably be better like  you
>say.  But maybe im over thinking it as usual.  Probably
>not required. Brian, I used the
>5\8ths  bar because that's what was specified on the
>plans.  However, its also convenient for using a 16mm
>reamer for the  bore. 
>regardsJames
>On 18 June 2015  at 03:04,
>Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <_personal_submersibles at psubs.org_
>(mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org) >
>wrote:
>Oh  cool !  Thanks Alec
>!    I owe you  much over the years
>! Brian
>--- _personal_submersibles at psubs.org_
>(mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org)
>wrote:
>
>From:  Alec Smyth via
>Personal_Submersibles <_personal_submersibles at psubs.org_
>(mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org) >
>To:  Personal Submersibles General Discussion 
><_personal_submersibles at psubs.org_ 
>(mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org)
>>
>Subject:  Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?
>Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2015 16:40:56  -0400
>
>Hi Brian,
>I tend to use quite  thick
>through-hulls because its easier for me to machine  the O-ring grooves 
>into the shaft than into the insert. In  my case its just a matter of 
>the tooling I have on hand. If  you have the tooling to put the grooves 
>in the insert, half  an inch is fine for many  applications.
>Best,
>
>Alec
>On
>Wed,  Jun 17, 2015 at 3:22 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles  
><_personal_submersibles at psubs.org_
>(mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org) >
>wrote:
>Alec,  James,  I'm
>using mostly 1/2" stainless rod through-out  for most all of my hull 
>penetrations ( for valves and  flaps) ,  I noticed in the example it 
>was a 5/8" rod,  Why such a heavy duty thickness?  Was that for a  
>particular function? Brian
>
>--- _personal_submersibles at psubs.org_
>(mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org)
>wrote:
>
>From:  Alec Smyth via
>Personal_Submersibles <_personal_submersibles at psubs.org_
>(mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org) >
>To:  Personal Submersibles General Discussion 
><_personal_submersibles at psubs.org_ 
>(mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org)
>>
>Subject:  Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?
>Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2015 14:03:17  -0400
>
>Hi James,
>I think
>with the taper,  this would tend to push in and jam. The idea is neat, 
>however,  and would probably work fine with a step instead of a taper. 
>On  the other hand, does an O ring sealed through-hull ever fail  
>catastrophically? I've had the odd drip, but that's all I've  bad as  
>I've seen.
>Best,
>Alec
>On
>Wed,  Jun 17, 2015 at 12:26 PM, James Frankland  via 
>Personal_Submersibles <_personal_submersibles at psubs.org_
>(mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org) >
>wrote:
>Hi  All Seeing as its a
>bit quite I thought I would show this  idea.  Its super simple.... I 
>have been thinking  how you could stop a leaking through hull.  
>Thinking of K  boat type 5\8th through hulls as in the plans. I  
>believe Scott had a leak when he did his deep test due to a  faulty O 
>ring?
>
>Anyway, here is my idea.  It
>would take a little bit more machining, but not  much. 
>Machine the 5\8ths bar with a taper on the  protruding part and a taper 
>on the top to help push the bar  through.
>(I did that on mine anyway).  The handle is  made with a cam type end.
>
>If you get  a
>leak, you can pull the handle up.  The bar would be  pulled up, forcing 
>the taper to jam into the penetrator,  hopefully stopping most of the 
>leak.  I suppose you could  even machine a matching taper into the 
>start of the through  hull to match? I suppose the bar could get pushed  
>through and jam on its own.  That's  a possibility. Pic attached. Kind 
>RegardsJames 
>
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