[PSUBS-MAILIST] LED lights

Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Sun May 17 17:17:01 EDT 2015


For my application I am not sure how the LED element or the PCB would handle the oil.


       From: Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
 To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
 Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 4:05 PM
 Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED lights
   
Would it be practical to flood the led compartment with mineral oil to dissipate heat? Brian

--- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:

From: Hugh Fulton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: "'Personal Submersibles General Discussion'" <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED lights
Date: Sun, 17 May 2015 17:53:25 +1200



That light looks very nice.Pretty sure mine are not Cree.  No name on them.  My lenses are glass.Calcs to 500 meters plus but have not tested yet.  After 10 minutes in air they get pretty warm but in water they are fine.Hugh. From: Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org] On Behalf Of Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles
Sent: Sunday, 17 May 2015 6:11 a.m.
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED lights Your design looks great. Yes we should, we should compare notes.   What is the overall dimension of your  two lights?  How many Lumens do the 50 and 150 watt lights make.  Are they Cree or Bridgelux LEDs?   I mentored some mechanical engineering students on LED light we developed.  Below is an expanded view.  
The main body housing where the fins are is 2 in OD.  These lights were made to run off  my 36 VDC main battery bank.  The custom PCB gives, a constant current to the LED as the battery voltage drops as well as reverse polarity and over current protection.  The body is 6061-T6 aluminum that has been anodized.  They pull a little over 1 amp of current and put out a little over 5000 lumen with a power consumption of 30W.  We originally had 3/8 x 2"OD flat acrylic lens but have since switched to a borosilicate glass lens of the same dimensions that will give us more depth, better dimensional stability and better scratch resistance.  Team successfully tested the light in a pressure and temperature controlled test chamber down to 750 fsw.  Light can run even when not submerged though it does get hotter.  I am in the process of fitting four of these on the R300 and seven on the R500 that I am designing. For future work, I would like to take the 10,000 lumen LED light that Scott Waters has recently installed in a 1-atm housing on Trusworthy and scale this housing up to fit this LED. I would like to get a closer look at your when I am in New Zealand latter this year if we can make that happen. Regards Cliff
   From: Hugh Fulton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: 'Personal Submersibles General Discussion' <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2015 1:19 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Fw: DOSITS: Forward Looking Sonar Cliff, What is the LED housing you did?  I did one as well 50 watts and 150 watts.  Should compare notes. Kind regards,Hugh  From: Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org] On Behalf Of Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles
Sent: Saturday, 16 May 2015 7:33 a.m.
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Fw: DOSITS: Forward Looking Sonar Still not convinced these transducers need to be protected from pressure.  I have a small test chamber I built to test my new LED housing.  I may pop the DST800 in and do some testing.  I am pretty sure the DST800 is fully potted and such, now where for water to go. Cliff  
  From: Alan via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2015 2:14 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Fw: DOSITS: Forward Looking Sonar Cliff, Scott,I was looking at the panoptix forward scanning sonar from Garminhttp://sites.garmin.com/en-US/panoptix/& the Simrad 2D forward scan. Neither the N.Z. expert for Simrad orthe Australasian manager for Garmin could tell me about the transducersconstruction & were dubious about their ability to withstand 250 psi.I would probably want it to be pressure resistant to 500 psi (twice operating depth)The Simrad is about $700 & the Garmin about $1500 so don't want to experiment.The Simrad expert was also unsure of the 2D models ability to shoot throughfiberglass & operate effectively. These are mounted vertically so couldn't in normalboating applications be mounted inside the hull due to hull shape.   The Simrad transducers are designed at theTulsa Navaco office in Oklahoma. That's just across the border from you Cliff. An alternative to the fibreglass plateI suggested may be to pot the whole unit up to 1/2" thick in fiberglass & fix it tothe hull with o-rings around the electrical through hull.I had a look at your DST800 Cliff. It has a paddle wheel in it. How deep will thepaddle wheel go before water will push through it's seal & into it's electronics??cheers, Alan 
Sent from my iPad 
On 16/05/2015, at 1:53 am, Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

Alan, I am not sure packaging a fish finder sounder transducer in a 1-atm pod is necessary for 500ft.  My guess is most of these are fully potted and cab take the pressure.   BTW, I am implementing a Airmar DST800 DST800 —Thru-Hull, Smart™ Sensor - Airmar Marine Transducers part of my R300 upgrade.  This sensor will give me altitude, speed and water temp.  The sensor sends out a NMEA 0183 ASCII sentence string that I will connect via RS232 serial feed into a coprocessor on my PLC.  I then can parse the string to get data.  I am using the same coprocessor so parse another transducer that gives me roll, pitch and heading.  This transducer is packaged in a custom 1-atm anodized aluminum housing. I looked at ROV sounders but these are expensive at $1500-$4000 each where these fish finder sounders are cheap.   Cliff 
Cliff Redus
Redus Engineering
USA mobile:  830-931-1280
cliffordredus at sbcglobal.com  From: Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2015 4:41 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Fw: DOSITS: Forward Looking Sonar Have just come back from the local boat show after talking to a couple ofexhibitors about sonar / depth sounders.I am still finding my way here. Was told I could mount a forward looking sonar insidea fiberglass hull & would loose about 15% of my range as apposed to in water mounting.They said the depth sounder worked better than the forward looking sonar through fiberglass.Why not have a small view port type arrangement in the bottom or up front of the submarinewith a fiberglass plate in it. Then glue the transducer to that.For a 3" diameter fiberglass plate .55" thick, I get a 4000ft crush depth. Safety factor of 4 forplastics I think, so 500ft capable operating depth.Quote from installation pdfs below......As an alternative to transom mounting, it is possible on manyfiberglass-hulled boats to glue the transducer on the inside ofthe boat hull. Since fiberglass has similar sonarcharacteristics as water, the sonar signal can pass throughthe boat hull with minimal loss. The hull of the boat must besingle layer construction (not double-hulled) Also, any airtrapped in the lamination of the fiberglass would prevent thesonar signal from passing through.Inside the hull installations require no holes be drilled into theboat and through experimentation, high-speed operationcomparable to transom mounting can be achieved. Two-partslow cure epoxy (not included) is required to glue the transducer in place.......In-hull: Installed against the inside of the hull bottom, the in-hull transducer sends its signal through the hull. “Shoot through hull” transducers do not need direct water contact. They’re glued to the inside of the hull with silicone or epoxy. An in-hull transducer is a good choice for a trailered boat, a vessel with a stepped hull, and for other types of high performance hull designs, as there is no drag, hull penetration or potential for fouling. No integrated temperature sensor. Can be installed while boat is in the water. For deadrise angles up to 30 degrees. As with thru-hulls, the selected location should be aft and close to the centerline so that the transducer is in the water at all times.In-hull transducers need solid fiberglass at the mounting location; no foam or plywood coring material, or air pockets. A typical 600W transducer can transmit through 1/2" to 5/8" (12-16mm) of fiberglass. To install inside a cored hull, find a location with no coring or remove the core material.Alan  From: Alan via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
Sent: Monday, May 11, 2015 5:10 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Fw: DOSITS: Forward Looking Sonar
Looks really nice Hank, but couldn't find a price.
They are marketing to ship owners not recreational boat market.
Had looked at other 3d forward scanners & they are quite a bit more than
the Sinrad 2d.
Alan 

Sent from my iPad

> On 11/05/2015, at 12:26 am, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> 
> 
> Alan,
> Check this system out, you probably have seen it.  This would be very nice to have.
> Hank
>> --- On Sun, 5/10/15, hank pronk <hankpronk at live.ca> wrote:
>> 
>> From: hank pronk <hankpronk at live.ca>
>> Subject: DOSITS: Forward Looking Sonar
>> To: "hanker_20032000 at yahoo.ca" <hanker_20032000 at yahoo.ca>
>> Received: Sunday, May 10, 2015, 8:25 AM
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> http://www.dosits.org/technology/locatingobjectsusingsonar/forwardlookingsonar/
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