[PSUBS-MAILIST] electrical pass-thru

Sun Nov 6 21:21:53 EST 2016

Brian,

Are you using the whole axel assembly still?  if so the axel has a lip seal already and I assume it will be oil filled, so it is done for you.  Just flip the seal around maybe.Hank 

    On Sunday, November 6, 2016 6:49 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

 On a similar note, it looks like I will be making a pod for these golf cart motors.  The only thing I'm not sure about is where the prop shaft will be coming out of the pod.  Can I run that shaft ( probably 1" dia) through a hefty rotation O ring and let that be the seal?  the o rings which have a rotating shaft usually have the o ring in the bore rather than on the shaft.   Brian

--- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:

From: Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] electrical pass-thru
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2016 22:58:40 +0000 (UTC)

Rick,have a look at this Psub paper about Minn kotta compensation.http://www.psubs.org/designguide/wmkmotor.htmlThe hose that wraps around the motor, as I understand it, is forequalizing the pressure inside the thruster with the ambient waterpressure. I guess it  would allow  for a bit of expansion.I did some calculations on the hose & it may not squeeze in untilat least 100ft. As the seals are only rated to 30ft that means theywould fail before you had any pressure compensation. "However"if you pre-compress the hose with a metal band to make it out of round, it solves the problem. cliff is using a regulator with relieving function to compensate.You could use this for air or oil, & it would take up any expansion.I believe (but could be wrong) that the 101 has 2 lip seals.To me this is a problem because one of the two of them will fail.There will be 1atm of pressure between the seals until one sealfails. I am not sure what Cliff did about this, he did a lot of workon the Minn kotta 101 recently.Cheers Alan

      From: Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
 To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
 Sent: Monday, November 7, 2016 10:20 AM
 Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] electrical pass-thru

Apparently I am not able to post directly to the group so I'll have to piggyback this thread with a couple of questions for now until I can figure out what's going on.

I am ready to start compensating my Minn-Kota motors and as I understand it from the group, a bladder and or tubing is needed to allow for expansion of the oil when it gets hot. Was wondering if this was based on theory or did someone in the past not do the tubing and have the O ring spit out? I wouldn't think that the tubing would be flexible enough to allow for expansion. I had copied a post of someone who had done it awhile back and they had said that they had drilled a 1/8" hole in the motor housing which seems quite small and was wondering if 1/4" might be better??
also, 
*For those using Minn-Kota motors, what are you using for a prop tip to hull distance?
* The length of rod that protrudes inside the hull ( thruster handle )
* Could I use something like a Schedule 80 ss pipe instead of solid ss round stock boarded out to accept the wires from the thruster?
* What size copper rod should I use to equal 10 gauge wire to carry the power from the thruster to inside the sub?
Thanks guys

Rick

On Wed, Nov 2, 2016 at 4:17 PM, Rick Patton <rick at landnseawelding.com> wrote:

Amazing as I though that that is what they would charge just to do the cut.

Rick

On Wed, Nov 2, 2016 at 3:44 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs. org> wrote:

most likely 6061 which is fine. Brian

--- personal_submersibles at psubs.or g wrote:

From: hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] electrical pass-thru
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 20:34:14 +0000 (UTC)

Brian,Man that is cheap, are you sure it is a good grade.  I want to build subs in California! Hank

    On Wednesday, November 2, 2016 12:26 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg> wrote:

 Hank,           $30 for a 6 1/2" dia  x 1 1/2" thick   .  one reason is I wanted to put a O ring around the edge for extra sealing capability. Brian

--- personal_submersibles at psubs.or g wrote:

From: hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] electrical pass-thru
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 09:03:12 +0000 (UTC)

Brian,I meant to say,, I got a 1 inch thick Aluminum pen plate that came with Gamma.Hank 

    On Tuesday, November 1, 2016 8:50 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg> wrote:

 Brian,That is a Sean type question, but I do have a 1 inch thick pen plate that came with Gamma.  Why spend the money on aluminum, just for machining.  I made mine in a flash with 516-70.  I made mine from a cut out from a ring I had cut, 1 inch thick.  You could have it water jet cut, then you just have to face it.Hank 

    On Tuesday, November 1, 2016 8:25 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg> wrote:

 Hank,    I'm planning on running my electrical power and control through one of my viewports .  My plan was to remove the window and put a piece in there that would be the same size as the acrylic window( 1 1/2" thick), I was thinking of using a 1 1/2" thick piece of aluminum just because it would be easier to machine.   I might need to have it anodized I guess, but can you think of any reason there would be an issue using aluminum ? Brian
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