[PSUBS-MAILIST] SOLENOID BALLAST VALVE

[Alan via Personal_Submersibles]

No. Failure mode is I won't be able to dive. If you were desperate you could unbolt
the bottom valves & get a diver to depress the top valves. If the wiring thickness &
windings are calculated with a large margin of error against burning out,
& the wire is protected against breakage, it should be pretty reliable. My ambient
has solenoid valves, but they were modified commercial valves that could corrode.
This gives you the liberty of operating the valves from a portable module.
Not shown in the drawing is a wire gauss that will stop the ingress of rubbish.
Alan  


Sent from my iPad

> On 18/10/2016, at 9:18 pm, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> 
> Alan,     Will you have a mechanical valve for back up ?
>  
> Brian
> 
> --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:
> 
> From: Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] SOLENOID BALLAST VALVE
> Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2016 07:43:50 +0000 (UTC)
> 
> I have been working on my ballast valve design. (below)
> It's based on the drawing Vance handed out at the Islamorada convention,
> except it's operated by a solenoid rather than an air cylinder.
> I am intending to have a similar valve on the bottom of my ballast tank,
> but modified so that the sealing gasket sits on the outside of the top plate
> & pushes away.
> I will be able to use the same wire on the top valve on the coil of the bottom
> valve so they work in unison. Just a matter of getting the right thickness
> of wire & number of turns.
> If it fails you won't be able to release air to dive, but will always be able to
> fill the tanks with air.
> The iron core of the plunger will need to be coated. The wiring of the solenoid
> is already coated but I'll add a bit of epoxy.
> The intended assembly method is to cut a whole in the top of the ballast tank
> & drop the module in. Then use the bolt holes in the top plate as a template
> for holes through the ballast tank. The ballast tank holes are then oversized
> to receive threaded inserts that are epoxied in from the inside. Then the valve
> is dropped in & bolted down.
> I am thinking of doing it all in hard anodized aluminum but are not quite sure.
> I am intending to weld the body to the top plate.
> Any thoughts???
> Alan 
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