[PSUBS-MAILIST] Light Experiments

Mon Apr 17 16:46:37 EDT 2017

Thanks Emile. By now maybe I've got the hand of it, but if they keep
breaking I'll give those a try instead.

On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 4:27 PM, emile via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> Alec,
>
>
>
> Get my lamp glass here:
>
> http://shop.dev-pein.de/Selbstbau/Glaeser/
>
> They are not as brittle as you mention.
>
>
>
> Br, Emile
>
>
>
> *Van:* Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-
> bounces at psubs.org] *Namens *Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles
> *Verzonden:* maandag 17 april 2017 20:20
> *Aan:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion
> *Onderwerp:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Light Experiments
>
>
>
> Hi Alan,
>
>
>
> The borosilicate lenses in these parts are $17 each if that is a useful
> reference. I would recommend several spares, because while resistant to
> temperature they are VERY easy to break during installation or if you just
> look at them unkindly. On one light I'm on the first one, but the other
> light took three of them before I learned just how gentle I had to be.
>
>
>
> Best,
>
>
> Alec
>
>
>
> On Sun, Apr 16, 2017 at 8:04 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Rick,
>
> I should mention that I have now gone with a 36V system &
>
> have some pwm dimming controlled buck boost LED drivers being
>
> made for me. These could drive Cliff & Alecs light. So waiting for these
>
> & a reply on the borosilicate lens enquiry before I go any further.
>
> Alan
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
> On 17/04/2017, at 11:39 AM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> High Rick,
>
> to insert the male subconn fitting it has to be turned 15 times as it
>
> winds down fully in to the thread; so the wire would be twisted 15 times if
>
> you went this way.
>
> Yes the bolts go right the way through. This avoids tapping threads & bolts
>
> seizing. It also has the advantage that I can have longer bolts out the
> back
>
> that an attachment bracket can be bolted to.
>
> The back section in the photo, has the led attached to it & an o-ring
> groove
>
> to seal against the bore of the middle section. The base of the middle
> section
>
> has an o-ring groove & the back section compresses this when the bolts
>
> are tightened up. So two o-rings on this section. The top ring that clamps
>
> the lens down on to an o-ring (also o-ring around the side of the lens) can
>
> be made a larger diameter with a second set of bolt holes so the light can
>
> be mounted in a recess.
>
> As the back section is the main heat sink & mount for the LED I don't have
>
> room for a bunch of twisted wires. The nozzle out back is designed so I
>
> can pour resin in to it, let it set, then coat the wiring about an inch up
> &
>
> the nozzle with silicone. Then I intend to mold a rubberised supporting
>
> section over the silicon. It should work!
>
> Pictures attached.
>
> Cheers Alan
>
> <image1.JPG>
>
>
> <image2.JPG>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
> On 17/04/2017, at 10:08 AM, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Hi Alan,
>
>
>
> Thanks for the picture.
>
> The size housing you are using is kinda what I wanted to go with as well.
> Not sure what you mean about screwing something in 15 times. From the top
> view picture you sent, looks like the front head/lens is held on against a
> sealing surface with 6 Allan head bolts that go all the way threw the back
> plate so I assume that the back plate is threaded and screws on against an
> 0 ring or something?
>
>  If that's the case, can't you drill and tap the back and put a sub-Conn
> or strain relief fitting in and allow just enough length of wires to
> protrude inside just enough to connect the LED wires to it before attaching
> the lens? Do you have any pictures of everything inside the housing by them
> self's?
>
>
>
> Rick
>
>
>
> On Sun, Apr 16, 2017 at 10:39 AM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Hi Rick,
>
> The light in the photos is mk 1 or 2. It didn't have oil in in those
> photos.
>
> Funny but the oil bubble & the temperature sensor had no effect on
>
> the light coming out.
>
>  The latest version has a conical lens machined in it & hides the
> attachment
>
> bolts for the LED.
>
> Still a work in progress as I have just made enquiries regarding pressure
>
> rated borosilicate glass lenses. This light is 85mm D x 54mm long.
> (excluding
>
> wiring nozzle) In the attached photo I have just temporarily siliconed
> around
>
> the wires for the test. I do have 8 subconn male & female connectors & was
>
> thinking of tapping a hole for the male connector to fit. The only problem
> is
>
> how do I connect the wires? My two LED wires are either side of the LED &
> come
>
> down two separate angled holes & meet in a central 8mm hole. I would need
>
> to fit the LED then attach the LED wires to the subconn wires & twist them
> 15
>
> times to thread in the subconn fitting. The subconn wires are very stiff &
> it
>
> just wasn't going to work without a large amount of room for twisted wires.
>
>    I have some ideas for potting the wires that I will try & test.
>
> The housing diameter was dictated by stock material sizes but works out
> well.
>
> I have machined the cooling fin slots in to the bolt holes to give the
> fins a bit
>
> more depth.
>
> Alan
>
> <image1.JPG>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
> On 17/04/2017, at 5:43 AM, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Alan,
>
>
>
> Do these pictures have the silicone oil in them? Do you have any side and
> back shots of the housing and other data regarding the housing like wall
> thickness and what fitting did you use to get the power out of the back and
> such?
>
>
>
> Rick
>
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 15, 2017 at 6:33 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> I put a temperature probe inside the housing of my 80W LED light.
> The probe was up against the acrylic lens, as I was concerned about
> what temperature the lens was seeing on the inside. The lens is 10mm
> away from the LED.
> The LED manufacturer told me that on normal LEDs the temperature
> out the front of the LED can be 338F (170C) but my flip chips should
> run cooler.
> Briefly; when run at 30W in water they stabilised at 257F after 5 minutes.
> At 45W they stabilised at 280F after 5 minutes. I stopped upping the amps
> at this stage.
> Next experiment, I filled the housing with silicone oil.
> At 45W it hit 116F in 4 minutes & temperature stabilised.
> At 76W it hit 139F in 6 minutes & stabilised.
> So oil has massive advantages in lessening temperature on the lens,
> maybe because it is a buffer from the radiant heat & also transfers the
> heat
> out through the housing quicker.
> Greg your thoughts would be appreciated on this; I am thinking that
> without the
> oil the acrylic lens would see temperatures at which it is formed
> especially
> if I went up to 80W. Although the outside of the lens was cold there would
> be a
> temperature transition across the thickness of the lens & it would be
> considerably
> weakened. I am building to 500ft, so it would potentially see 250 psi in
> operation.
>    At this stage I haven't made up my mind whether to go with a
> borosilicate lens
> or oil fill with an acrylic lens. I had a large bubble & it would be hard
> to eliminate
> all bubbles in the oil filling process.
> Will try & attach photos.
> Alan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
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