[PSUBS-MAILIST] Light Experiments

Mon Apr 17 20:21:10 EDT 2017

Interesting, I don't see the tempered option. The ones I have are annealed.
They're McMaster item #8477K48.

Thanks,

Alec

On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 5:14 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> Thanks Alec,
> were they tempered borosilicate? I noted on the Mc Master Carr site that
> under "Pressure  Rated Borosilicate Glass Discs" they had Annealed &
> Tempered
> options. The tempered glass was 3 times stronger.
> Alan
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On 18/04/2017, at 6:19 AM, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Hi Alan,
>
> The borosilicate lenses in these parts are $17 each if that is a useful
> reference. I would recommend several spares, because while resistant to
> temperature they are VERY easy to break during installation or if you just
> look at them unkindly. On one light I'm on the first one, but the other
> light took three of them before I learned just how gentle I had to be.
>
> Best,
>
> Alec
>
> On Sun, Apr 16, 2017 at 8:04 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>> Rick,
>> I should mention that I have now gone with a 36V system &
>> have some pwm dimming controlled buck boost LED drivers being
>> made for me. These could drive Cliff & Alecs light. So waiting for these
>> & a reply on the borosilicate lens enquiry before I go any further.
>> Alan
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On 17/04/2017, at 11:39 AM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>> High Rick,
>> to insert the male subconn fitting it has to be turned 15 times as it
>> winds down fully in to the thread; so the wire would be twisted 15 times
>> if
>> you went this way.
>> Yes the bolts go right the way through. This avoids tapping threads &
>> bolts
>> seizing. It also has the advantage that I can have longer bolts out the
>> back
>> that an attachment bracket can be bolted to.
>> The back section in the photo, has the led attached to it & an o-ring
>> groove
>> to seal against the bore of the middle section. The base of the middle
>> section
>> has an o-ring groove & the back section compresses this when the bolts
>> are tightened up. So two o-rings on this section. The top ring that clamps
>> the lens down on to an o-ring (also o-ring around the side of the lens)
>> can
>> be made a larger diameter with a second set of bolt holes so the light can
>> be mounted in a recess.
>> As the back section is the main heat sink & mount for the LED I don't have
>> room for a bunch of twisted wires. The nozzle out back is designed so I
>> can pour resin in to it, let it set, then coat the wiring about an inch
>> up &
>> the nozzle with silicone. Then I intend to mold a rubberised supporting
>> section over the silicon. It should work!
>> Pictures attached.
>> Cheers Alan
>> <image1.JPG>
>>
>> <image2.JPG>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On 17/04/2017, at 10:08 AM, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Alan,
>>
>> Thanks for the picture.
>> The size housing you are using is kinda what I wanted to go with as well.
>> Not sure what you mean about screwing something in 15 times. From the top
>> view picture you sent, looks like the front head/lens is held on against a
>> sealing surface with 6 Allan head bolts that go all the way threw the back
>> plate so I assume that the back plate is threaded and screws on against an
>> 0 ring or something?
>>  If that's the case, can't you drill and tap the back and put a sub-Conn
>> or strain relief fitting in and allow just enough length of wires to
>> protrude inside just enough to connect the LED wires to it before attaching
>> the lens? Do you have any pictures of everything inside the housing by them
>> self's?
>>
>> Rick
>>
>> On Sun, Apr 16, 2017 at 10:39 AM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Rick,
>>> The light in the photos is mk 1 or 2. It didn't have oil in in those
>>> photos.
>>> Funny but the oil bubble & the temperature sensor had no effect on
>>> the light coming out.
>>>  The latest version has a conical lens machined in it & hides the
>>> attachment
>>> bolts for the LED.
>>> Still a work in progress as I have just made enquiries regarding pressure
>>> rated borosilicate glass lenses. This light is 85mm D x 54mm long.
>>> (excluding
>>> wiring nozzle) In the attached photo I have just temporarily siliconed
>>> around
>>> the wires for the test. I do have 8 subconn male & female connectors &
>>> was
>>> thinking of tapping a hole for the male connector to fit. The only
>>> problem is
>>> how do I connect the wires? My two LED wires are either side of the LED
>>> & come
>>> down two separate angled holes & meet in a central 8mm hole. I would need
>>> to fit the LED then attach the LED wires to the subconn wires & twist
>>> them 15
>>> times to thread in the subconn fitting. The subconn wires are very stiff
>>> & it
>>> just wasn't going to work without a large amount of room for twisted
>>> wires.
>>>    I have some ideas for potting the wires that I will try & test.
>>> The housing diameter was dictated by stock material sizes but works out
>>> well.
>>> I have machined the cooling fin slots in to the bolt holes to give the
>>> fins a bit
>>> more depth.
>>> Alan
>>> <image1.JPG>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>> On 17/04/2017, at 5:43 AM, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <
>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>
>>> Alan,
>>>
>>> Do these pictures have the silicone oil in them? Do you have any side
>>> and back shots of the housing and other data regarding the housing like
>>> wall thickness and what fitting did you use to get the power out of the
>>> back and such?
>>>
>>> Rick
>>>
>>> On Sat, Apr 15, 2017 at 6:33 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I put a temperature probe inside the housing of my 80W LED light.
>>>> The probe was up against the acrylic lens, as I was concerned about
>>>> what temperature the lens was seeing on the inside. The lens is 10mm
>>>> away from the LED.
>>>> The LED manufacturer told me that on normal LEDs the temperature
>>>> out the front of the LED can be 338F (170C) but my flip chips should
>>>> run cooler.
>>>> Briefly; when run at 30W in water they stabilised at 257F after 5
>>>> minutes.
>>>> At 45W they stabilised at 280F after 5 minutes. I stopped upping the
>>>> amps
>>>> at this stage.
>>>> Next experiment, I filled the housing with silicone oil.
>>>> At 45W it hit 116F in 4 minutes & temperature stabilised.
>>>> At 76W it hit 139F in 6 minutes & stabilised.
>>>> So oil has massive advantages in lessening temperature on the lens,
>>>> maybe because it is a buffer from the radiant heat & also transfers the
>>>> heat
>>>> out through the housing quicker.
>>>> Greg your thoughts would be appreciated on this; I am thinking that
>>>> without the
>>>> oil the acrylic lens would see temperatures at which it is formed
>>>> especially
>>>> if I went up to 80W. Although the outside of the lens was cold there
>>>> would be a
>>>> temperature transition across the thickness of the lens & it would be
>>>> considerably
>>>> weakened. I am building to 500ft, so it would potentially see 250 psi
>>>> in operation.
>>>>    At this stage I haven't made up my mind whether to go with a
>>>> borosilicate lens
>>>> or oil fill with an acrylic lens. I had a large bubble & it would be
>>>> hard to eliminate
>>>> all bubbles in the oil filling process.
>>>> Will try & attach photos.
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPad
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