[PSUBS-MAILIST] PWM LED driver for Cliff's enclosure

Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Sat Apr 22 11:41:11 EDT 2017


I am the same way.  Don't really see the need to dim external lights.  With
the muds holes I dive it a mute point anyway!

cliff

On Sat, Apr 22, 2017 at 9:50 AM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> I have not ever wanted to dim my light, perhaps I have not been in the
> right environment.  I am not sure that should be a concern, I mean to
> keep it simple.
> Hank
>
>
> On Saturday, April 22, 2017 7:32 AM, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>
> I'm still planning on making a second set of lights and so will machine
> the enclosure. My first set is 5K, but the next one is 10K. Now having said
> that I already have the driver for it, but am happy to test the proposed
> one. Ah, and my existing driver lacks dimming so this would also be a plus.
>
> Best,
>
> Alec
>
> On Sat, Apr 22, 2017 at 8:29 AM, Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> River, thanks for picking up the ball on the LED driver PCB for the Psub
> 10k light.  I support everthing you have said but do agree with Alan on the
> supply voltage range.  A lot of the PSub community use a 36VDC main bus to
> drive the Minn Kota 101's for thursters.  The expected voltage range for
> three 12V batteries in series is on the order of 30-40 volts so 36V max on
> the LT3478 is not going to work.  See specification of this supply voltage
> in the 10K LED project speciation page I sent you.  Also, you will need to
> change the pin out in the Psub spec. as well as the part number for the
> Subconn connector to be able to have diming via a 0-5 VDC analog control
> signal.
>
> For simplicity and KISS, I think we should abandon the optional side mount
> on the enclosure drawings I developed and just focus on the rear entry for
> the bulkhead connector.  Due to the delay in getting a viable driver for
> the 10K LED project, a lot of folks have gone their own way on external
> lights.  We are going to have to get someone that still needs external
> lights to machine the prototype enclosure.   I am willing to test the
> prototype light in my test chamber.
>
>
> Cliff
>
> On Sat, Apr 22, 2017 at 12:03 AM, River Dolfi via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.
> org <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>> wrote:
>
> Hey everyone,
> I've managed to convince a professor at the University to let me tackle
> developing a high power LED driver for psubs purposes for a grade. I'm just
> curious which features everyone would like in an LED driver. I am designing
> a driver for the Bridgelux Vero 29 LED array and will hopefully package it
> into a form factor so that all of the electronics fit into the enclosures
> Cliff designed and presented at the last convention.
>
> So far I plan on using a small microcontroller (probably an ATTiny for
> those who are interested) to generate a PWM signal that will switch a
> MOSFET, to control the amount of power delivered from an off the shelf
> constant current LED driver chip. The chip I found, the LT3478, seems to be
> ideal for PSUBS purposes, as it contains it's own converter that will
> accepts anything between 5 and 36 volts.
>
> I'm also probably going to incorporate a temperature sensor that will shut
> the light down if it gets too hot (running the light for too long out of
> the water) and killing the electronics/melting the lens. The
> microcontroller will accept a 0-5 volt analog signal from either a
> potentiometer or a PLC in order to convert that to a PWM signall to dim the
> lights.
>
> Are there any major features that I'm missing? It seems that PWM dimming
> and application specific temperature control are the big ones. Curious to
> get input from those that are running LED rigs right now.
>
> --
> -River J. Dolfi
>
> 412-997-2526
> rdolfi7 at gmail.com
> rwd5301 at psu.edu
>
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