[PSUBS-MAILIST] Heads Question

Sun Sep 17 22:33:23 EDT 2017

Here's the method I used. The starting point is a bevel with the sharp end
of course on the ID and the wide end of the wedge on the OD. An air gap of
about 1/8" is left between the two parts.

1) TIG weld the root pass, from the *inside* of the hull, plugging the air
gap.
2) Grind with an angle grinder from the outside into the root pass. Use a
1/4" wheel on the angle grinder. You need to get a clean shiny U shaped
channel, pure like-new metal, with no visible discontinuities whatsoever.
3) Stick weld from the outside building up layers until meeting the plate
thickness.

Perhaps a double bevel would be needed for very thick material. The method
I'm describing, I've used on material up to 1/2" with no problem.

Dan, if I'm talking rubbish please set me straight!

Best,

Alec

On Sun, Sep 17, 2017 at 9:52 PM, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> Definitely want to bevle both sides. If you don't, your wire/stick/Tig
> will short out way too soon becoming molten and not reaching the ID of the
> hull and you will have to do a lot of back gouging before reaching your
> first pass.
> Rick
>
> On Sun, Sep 17, 2017 at 3:54 PM Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>> I have found that I get a better weld if both sides are beveled .
>>
>> Brian
>>
>> --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:
>>
>> From: Private via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>>
>> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Heads Question
>> Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2017 19:30:01 -0400
>>
>> Hi David,
>>
>> Absolutely, you want it with the flange. Any impression otherwise was my
>> "mind typo" that I was trying to clarify in the second email. If you can
>> avoid beveling it yourself, however, it'll save quite a job. You only need
>> one of the two edges beveled, either the head flange or the end of the
>> cylinder it will mate to, and it doesn't matter which. Greg has a good
>> point, but I suppose a key factor is whether you'll be welding yourself or
>> contracting out. I learned to do my own, with an awful lot of help from Dan
>> Lance.
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Alec
>>
>> On Sep 16, 2017, at 12:50 PM, james cottrell via Personal_Submersibles <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>> Hi David,
>>
>> In my experience it was cheaper and faster to hire an ASME tank
>> fabricator to produce a steel cylinder with the head (or heads) welded on.
>> Mine came machine welded with an ASME code stamp.
>> If your design will feature external frames, ask them for both heads
>> welded on. If your design will feature internal frames (done later) ask
>> them to weld one end only. This will be cheaper in the long run and better
>> built. It's hard to beat pressure vessel code machine welding. Specify NO
>> backing strips.
>>
>> Another tip- call it a "vacuum tank".
>>
>> Greg Cottrell
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* David Colombo via Personal_Submersibles <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>> *To:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>> *Sent:* Saturday, September 16, 2017 12:20 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Heads Question
>>
>> Hi Alec,
>> I just spoke with the company that Roberto mentioned here in California
>> to place an order for dished head for the SeaQuestor. I will be using the
>> 36"OD x .375 A516-70 steel what they call Elliptical 2:1 Ratio ASME Code
>> Type. It comes with a 2" flange which is really a 36" od ring shape as part
>> of the forming. This would mate up to the 36"OD first hull section. I'm
>> thinking that this would give me the best welding condition with two
>> matched surfaces that I would bevel for full pen welding. I'm curious why
>> not to have the flange?   My cost here is $480.00 + $96 to have it shipped
>> to northern California from southern California. even though its only a
>> nine hour drive one way, I think my time would be worth more than $5 hr to
>> pick it up. LOL Unless of course its cheaper in Canada (Hank), I might make
>> the trip and could serve as support crew for the Gamma. Any thoughts out
>> there from fellow Psubers would be appreciated.
>>
>> Best Regards,
>> David Colombo
>>
>> 804 College Ave
>> <https://maps.google.com/?q=804+College+Ave+Santa+Rosa,+CA.+95404+(707&entry=gmail&source=g>
>> Santa Rosa, CA. 95404
>> <https://maps.google.com/?q=804+College+Ave+Santa+Rosa,+CA.+95404+(707&entry=gmail&source=g>
>> (707
>> <https://maps.google.com/?q=804+College+Ave+Santa+Rosa,+CA.+95404+(707&entry=gmail&source=g>)
>> 536-1424
>> www.SeaQuestor.com <http://www.seaquestor.com/>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 15, 2017 at 2:28 PM, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>> Ugh, mental typo. I meant "un-beveled" and "bevel them yourself", not
>> "un-flanged" and "flange them yourself".
>>
>> !!!!!!!
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 15, 2017 at 5:25 PM, Alec Smyth <alecsmyth at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Roberto,
>>
>> I believe the short description for what you need is flanged, beveled,
>> and code. You could get them unflanged, but it takes quite a while to make
>> a flange with an angle grinder. The flanges if I recall are 2". Do set up a
>> project page or something so we can follow progress!
>>
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Alec
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 15, 2017 at 5:07 PM, roberto alvarez via
>> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg
>> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>> wrote:
>>
>> Hi, lost the plans cd for the k250, i am  interested in the  head
>> selection, i found a seler in california and have
>> flanged ,beveled ,code, non code,
>>
>> Will apreciate your support in this ( until i found the plans cd )
>>
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