[PSUBS-MAILIST] LED lights

Fri Feb 2 15:40:28 EST 2018

Rick,
I spent hours & hours of time looking at underwater pool lights, dive lights & anything I
could adapt easily. Ordered a lot of stuff but didn't find anything suitable.
These high powered dc leds are an evolving technology & you might find a pool
light or garden flood light that you can oil fill. 
Most of the components in my light were cheap. Led $6.50, lens only a couple
of dollars, driver nearer $50 but you can pick them up cheap without dimming.
They have a small potentiometer on them & you can turn the voltage down for a 
crude dimming function. The gaskets I had to get cut to size. The stainless bolts
were one of the bigger expenses. But the biggest pain was making them. I had to
make jigs for drilling angled holes from the wiring to a central port at the back
of the light & I built about 3 housings till I got it how I wanted.
The led I used was smaller than the standard 36V leds & round which I felt
would put out a more uniform light pattern.
Alan 

Sent from my iPad

> On 3/02/2018, at 9:07 AM, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> 
> Alan,
> 
> Very impressive system! I am planning on having 5 on my sub so not sure those would be in my budget...
> Rick
> 
>> On Fri, Feb 2, 2018 at 9:24 AM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>> Rick,
>> They are 1 atm, not oil filled.
>> I bought the 7000 lm emitter from the manufacturer in China.
>> They make the bridgelux emitters. I had ordered them with the pigtails on
>> as I didn't want to overheat the emitter with my cheap soldering set up.
>> The driver is the circuit board you can see with a potentiometer for dimming
>> coming off it. This is a buck / boost constant current driver, meaning it can
>> take any voltage between 12-54V & boost it up to or drop it down to 36V &
>> also maintain a constant current. Led's get hot & draw more current so need a
>> cc driver to stop them burning out. Not a problem if the voltage is below a certain 
>> threshold. The driver was manufactured to my specs in China. As said before, 
>> I am going to have this modified. I ordered the housing from a different supplier.
>> The led is screwed on to the base with a heat transferring paste. I have tiny teflon
>> washers under the screws. There is a teflon gasket that the lens sits on &
>> another as a buffer sitting on the led screws as protection against wires shorting
>> on the housing where they are soldered on to the led.
>> I have 4 o-ring seals, two in the base, one at the side of the lens & one on top
>> of the lens. 
>> At the top of the photo you can see a mold  I made for a cable support & tidy
>> up of the wiring. The wiring was embedded in resin then overlaid to an inch
>> up the pvc wiring with a pvc glue before the polyurathane cable support was
>> molded over it. ( not shown)
>> 6 bolts run right through it with nuts at the back holding it all together.
>> I can mount it using these bolts. longer bolts can be used for mounting if
>> necessary. Alternatively the front plate can be made wider with additional
>> holes for mounting to a hole in the superstructure etc.
>> The housing is aluminium & was marine anodised.
>> I do have drawings on my computer & machining notes that may need 
>> updating. The light was tested to 2000ft but would probably go at least
>> 4000ft.
>> You are welcome to more detail if you are still keen to make some up.
>> Cheers Alan
>> 
>> <image1.jpeg>
>> <image2.JPG>
>> 
>>> On 3/02/2018, at 6:35 AM, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi Alan,
>>> 
>>> Did you buy just a 7,000lm array and put them in a housing or did they already come in a housing and you filled them like Hank did? Not sure what a driver is either?? Is it a PWM that acts like a driver and a dimmer as well? Do you have any pictures on your projects and photos page of this I can look at and could you send me the particulars offline on where you bought the drivers and arrays? and Cliff, please send me what you have as well.
>>> Mahalo!
>>> satwelder at gmail.com
>>> Thanks
>>> Rick
>>> 
>>>> On Thu, Feb 1, 2018 at 12:31 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>> Rick,
>>>> I have built my led 7000lm 36V lights & are going to use 2 out front.
>>>> I have used them on a boat & in the bush & don't consider them an 
>>>> overkill. I think with the clear water in Hawaii you would want more
>>>> lumens as there will be a further distance that you can see night diving.
>>>> I have dimmers on mine for low visibility diving, as the back scatter from
>>>> the muck in the water will be blinding.
>>>> Led's need a driver to give them constant current & of lesser importance
>>>> constant voltage. They are reasonably voltage tolerant as long as the current 
>>>> is controlled. I mistakenly had a 36V led running off 80V. 
>>>> You can build your own but for me it was a lot of mucking about designing,
>>>> sourcing lenses from China etc. I had my led driver designed & made
>>>> specifically for me by a Chinese firm. I am not happy with aspects of the
>>>> design as there is a certain part that needs heat sinking & default mode
>>>> is on if the wiring comes apart. So will be re-ordering an updated driver
>>>> some time in the future.
>>>> You can find suitable buck boost drivers on ebay as Alec did, but not with
>>>> dimming.
>>>> They don't get too hot if you run them in water & heat sink them to a base.
>>>> The easiest idea, as Hank says is to find a suitable off the shelf light that
>>>> you can oil compensate. The drivers however have electrolytic capacitors
>>>> that are vulnerable to pressure, so if the driver is in the light unit it could
>>>> fail under pressure if compensated.
>>>> I have subjected an led on it's own to 2000psi & it survived.
>>>> Most of the high power leds are around 36V.
>>>> Let me know if I can help.
>>>> Emile sells an led light!
>>>> Cheers Alan
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>> 
>>>>> On 2/02/2018, at 10:33 AM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Rick,
>>>>> You can keep it real simple and just buy water proof lights (LED) and oil fill them.  Just inspect the light to make sure you can drill and put a filler plug in.  I have great luck with a 24,000 lumen light bar.   I am actually buying a clear acrylic cylinder to put my light into.  Alec has had luck with this also, maybe he can suggest the particular light to use.
>>>>> Hank
>>>>> 
>>>>> On Thursday, February 1, 2018, 2:06:41 PM MST, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> I have been experimenting with my LED exterior lights which is a field I know nothing about which makes it even that much more frustrating and wanted to get feedback from those who have had success so far using them.
>>>>> 
>>>>> I was planning on using incandescent lights but everyone I talk to say that LED is the only way to go. I guess my reasoning for staying with incandescent was that it was a no brainier for me but I liked what I heard about LED. I initially figured that if 10 lumans is good 10,000 is much better but I am finding out that once you get up to that high a luman, a lot of things kick in that you have to deal with!
>>>>> 
>>>>> I also am thinking that I can probably get away with a heck of a lot less lumans due to the visibility that we have here in Hawaii so maybe all I need are 5,000 luman lights which put out a lot less heat and don't have to deal with some of the issues that a 10,000 luman light would.
>>>>> 
>>>>> All input appreciated!
>>>>> In the dark in Hawaii! not to mention fake missile alerts!!
>>>>> 
>>>>> Rick
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