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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Re: The Dry Divers
Thanks James and Dan H
I have taken and appraciate your advice .
Glen
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Frankland" <james@guernseysubmarine.com>
To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 3:51 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Re: The Dry Divers
Hi Glen
There are a lot of people on the list with more experience than me, but i
will tell you what i know.
It really depends on how much you really want to do yourself and how much
money you have to throw at the project. There's little point spending
thousands on a huge lathe just to make 8 viewports and a few other bits.
You could just out-source the machine work or borrow someone elses machines.
But, i know i like to do as much as i can myself.
So, depending on which parts of the project your going to make yourself will
depend on what lathe you need.
The normal viewports are 9" OD so you'll need something that can handle at
least 12" probably.
The large front port is 16" OD (I think) so again you'll need something
around 18".
But its not just the swing, its the mass of the machine itself. My little
Myford ML7 (now repaired) can allegedly turn 10" X 1.5" in the bed gap, but
in reality there is no way it can turn anything that large with any
accuracy. http://www.guernseysubmarine.com/index_files/Page13751.htm
Whatever lathe you get needs to be able to handle the size and weight of
material. Look at John Farrnigtons page where he machines his large port.
Looks like a Jet lathe and he seems to just be able to scrape the job done
on this.
http://www.prismnet.com/~jrf/SubPics/image203.html
I used a long bed Colchester Triumph 2000 to make my ports which has a 22.5"
swing in the bed gap and 15" over the bed. This machine was easily up to
the job and i know would be able to turn the 16" port as well without issue.
Im not making that port though. It will also be ok for the 12" battery pods
that i need to do soon.
I'd love one of those machines myself, but i havent the room even if i could
afford it. So i use a college workshop nearby as i know the guys there.
Found one on ebay just now and although i suspect it will have a reserve on
it, for GBP 750 i'd go up to Oldham and drag it home.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Colchester-Triumph-2000-CNC-Lathe_W0QQitemZ270265789776QQcmdZViewItem?IMSfp=TL080816098a35980
http://www.p-h-s.co.uk/Colchester.htm
There is also the facing of the hatch and hatch ring to do, I believe Dan H
did his himself but for me this was out of the question. I was forced to
pay a professional engineering company to do it.
I suggest you try and get something second hand, as big as you can afford
and fit in your shed!. Make sure its in good order as well as you might
spend several weeks of your sub project fixing the thing up (like me).
Hope that helps,
good luck
James
----- Original Message -----
From: glen brown [mailto:glenbrown@vodamail.co.za]
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 11:52:17 +0200
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Re: The Dry Divers
Hi James
I have purchased the K350 plans and plan to start building as soon as
possible.I am pressently researching lathes
I hope someone could give advice on swing over bed size and size between
centres that i would need for building
the K350.Thanks for all your advice.
ps the dry divers sub manipulator ball valve idea could be worth considering
but being a comercial diver for
many years i have seen ball valves fail countless times due to something as
small as a grain of sand getting stuck in the seals .As for the mechanics of
the manipulator i think the same concept as a device used to lift fish out
of the water by there lower jaw after being cauht by a fisherman could
work.
All the best from South Africa
Glen Brown
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Frankland" <james@guernseysubmarine.com>
To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 9:39 AM
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Re: The Dry Divers
Hi all.
Can someone send me the link again for the dry divers cue ball arm thing
people are talking about. I must have missed the email with the link on so
i havent actually seen it.
Thanks
James
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Cox [mailto:ojaivalleybeefarm@dslextreme.com]
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 22:01:58 -0700
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Re: The Dry Divers
Jay,
Do you know how they made the seal on that cue ball? You're
right about machining stainless, but not impossible.
Brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org]On Behalf Of Jay K. Jeffries
Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2008 4:55 PM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Re: The Dry Divers
The cue ball was handy and readily adoptable for the first manipulator.
Cue balls were originally made from ivory, then nitro cellulose (the first
plastic but a touchy explosive they found out), and then plastic. A ball
valve will have a limited range of motion due to its standoff from the hull
and will be difficult to work with due to the large diameter hole through
the middle. Stainless steel would be great for the ball but may be
difficult to machine for the home machinist.
R/Jay
Respectfully,
Jay K. Jeffries
Andros Is., Bahamas
Talk sense to a fool and he calls you foolish.
- Euripides (484 BC - 406 BC)
From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of Brian Cox
Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2008 7:34 PM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Re: The Dry Divers
I want one too ! I don't get the cue ball part, wouldn't you have to
have a hole thru the cue ball? What are cue balls made of ? ceramic?
What about using a ball valve or simply machine a large stainless sphere and
put a hole thru it.
Brian
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