[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Dome adhesive



Hi James,

That sounds exactly like the way you should go.  I had recently spoke with Greg about Sika primer but had not gotten to the point to ask him the remaining data I would need. Thanks for bring that data to my attention.


Your resident possibility thinker ;)'

Regards,

Szybowski


> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> From: james@guernseysubmarine.com
> Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Dome adhesive
> Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 14:01:56 +0100
>
> Hi Ian.
>
> here is the message i found mentioning using Sika as the bonding agent for domes.
> What do you think?
>
> James
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Kyle [mailto:edlunddds@comcast.net]
> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> Sent: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 23:46:11 -0500
> Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Dome adhesive
>
> I had my K-250 dome annealed by Greg Cottrell and also had the retaining ring (hatch) powder coated. He suggested I use Sikaflex-295 UV as the sealant/adhesive between the dome and ring and the following instructions were from an email to me that he said I could share.
>
> "The 3 items should be 226 cleaner (window and seat), then 209 primer (window and seat), then 295UV adhesive (a big fat bead in the corner of the seat). It's a good idea to use a few small 1/16 rubber shims between the window and seat so the adhesive doesn't all squeeze out. I usually mask off the window with two half circles of vinyl mask (from the local sign shop) to keep adhesive off the viewing area. You can wipe off the excess around the window while it is soft and pull the vinyl off later. Some guys let the excess harden and then cut it off later with a knife- this is a bad idea because it scores the acrylic and can cause it to break under pressure. Scratches/ cuts on the inside are not good."
> The Items he is referring to are all Sika products. The process went smoothly I used small pieces of 1/16 inch o-rings as my shims.
> Kyle
>