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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] depth indicator



There are good application instructions on there site.  The the emails today about "Dome adhesive".  Here are the notes I have on using the stuff.

Goto
http://www.submarineboat.com/building_the_hull.htm and go to "View Ports" at the bottom of the page.

This is for gluing to aluminum. There might be a different formula and process for fiberglass, but I know folks are using this for installing portals into fiberglass sailboats that are cursing blue water. 

Doug "Newby too" Jackson
www.submarineboat.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Carlos Del Valle <carlosd072657@gmail.com>
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 3:24 pm
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] depth indicator

Hi Doug, thanks so much, I'm a newby and really value your help. I never even

considered gluing it on, but it sounds like a great idea! Next novice question,

how large a bead do I lay down, does it have to contact the entire area of the

flange, and have you ever used Sikaflex before? Thanks again, and good

luck with your project

Best Regards, Carlos



On 8/29/08, djackson99@aol.com <djackson99@aol.com> wrote:

> Hello Carlos

>

> You want something between 4 - 1/4 inch bolts, and 1 - 1/2" bolt every 2

> inches. :)

>

> If your flange were on the outside I'd first consider the load. Visualize

> your sub with the dome on, then turned upside down and filled with water so

> that the water occupies the same space that air will occupy. How many

> gallons of water is that? At 8.2 pounds per gallons, how much weight is

> that? Then multiply by 2+ and get enough bolts to hold that amount.

>

> Consider that acrylic does not like being drilled and it will crack around

> the edges and holes. Annealing will help prevent that but it is still a

> failure point so you will likely want to add a ring to spread the load from

> the bolts.

>

> Since your flange is on the inside, I'd keep the holes size and spacing to a

> minimum in order to reduce weakening the acrylic. I'd want to be able to

> support 250 pounds so someone could sit on it, and if you have a ring on the

> inside to spread the load then 6 - 1/4 inch bolts with big washers would do.

> I'd also consider the possibility of your ambient sub becoming a 1ATM sub

> when it makes a fast decent, and I'd think about what will happen if you

> were to hit something when surfacing like a Japanese fishing boat. If you're

> using a dry seal like a neoprene gasket, you'll need to keep it compressed

> enough to keep it from leaking air. You'll also want to make the hole

> sufficiently larger than the bolt to account for any expansion diference

> between your acrylic and hull.

>

> If it were me, I'd use Sikaflex; www.sikaindustry.com and glue it in.

> You'll have to destroy it if you ever want it out again, but if your takeing

> it out your likely doing so to replace it anyway. I am picking up my

> acrylic today, and I plan to use Sikaflex to glue it in. No bolts or holes.

>

> Best of Luck

> Doug

> www.submarineboat.com

>

>

>

> -----Original Message-----

> From: Carlos Del Valle <carlosd072657@gmail.com>

> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org

> Sent: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 9:48 am

> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] depth indicator

>

>

> Hi Doug, I'm also building an ambient sub, re: dome mounting, I have a

>

1/4" acrylic

>

dome 22" dia. with a 2" flange. I'm going to bolt the flange from the

>

inside. How many bolts should I use and how far apart should they be?

>

I'll wait to hear from you

>

before I start drilling holes. Also, can I use individual washers for

>

each bolt or

>

should I get a support ring, and if so, how makes them?

>

Thanks, Carlos

>

>

>

n 8/29/08, djackson99@aol.com <djackson99@aol.com> wrote:

>

> Hmmmm... Not the weight of the sub. It should indicate the depth of the

> vent

>

> where the air is released into the surrounding water and likely a little

>

> deeper since the constant flow of air may add a few psi to the ambient

>

> cabin. Air at the top of the cabin is at the same pressure as the air at

>

> the bottom of the cabin where it is vented to the surrounding water. So

> it

>

> does not matter where the gauge is inside the cabin.

>

>

>

> That also makes the air at the top of the cabin at a pressure higher than

>

> the water surrounding the top of the cabin. So a hatch in the top of an

>

> ambient sub seals naturally if it opens inward. Completely opposite to a

>

> 1ATM sub.

>

>

>

> In my case the dive computer is going to ride along outside the forward

> view

>

> port. There is no room for it inside and with it outside it will

>

> automatically start logging the dive when it submerges.

>

>

>

> So what are you thinking of building?

>

>

>

> Doug J

>

> www.submarineboat.com

>

>

>

>

>

> -----Original Message-----

>

> From: David Bartsch <dbartsch2236@hotmail.com>

>

> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org

>

> Sent: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 11:11 pm

>

> Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] depth indicator

>

>

>

> In an ambient submarine, if one uses a dive watch type depth indicators

>

> to give an indication of how deep He is, does this display the actual

> depth

>

> or will it be off a little having the additional weight of the sub

> working

>

> on it? One of those HMMMM thoughts...

>

>

>

>

>

> David Bartsch

>

>

>

> ________________________________

>

> Be the filmmaker you always wanted to beearn how to burn a DVD with

> Windows.

>

> Make your smash hit=

>

>

>

>

>

>

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