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 Hi Alan, 
  
The axial load you describe would only occur if you did the 
mod that involves fitting the Minnkotas with mechanical seals. If you compensate 
with air or oil, there is no axial load because the pressure inside 
the motor is the same as the pressure on the outside. The pressure differential 
is the same, whether you use air or oil. 
  
cheers, 
 Alec
  
Hi Psubbers, 
You got me thinking about the oil compensation / air 
compensation or neither issue. 
If I was at 300ft with 132 psi water pressure and had a 
1/2" diameter propeller shaft, 
it would equate to 26 psi axial load on the motors 
thrust bearings. Wich might be  
significant on a small sub with small motors when you add 
the thrust from the motors  
as well. Wouldn't this be a good reason for air 
compensation? I'm envisaging a drill, 
drilling with 20lb weight on it and then another 26lb 
added to it. It seems a large 
additional strain on bearings and motor. 
I have two motors and weren't going to compensate them but 
are now wondering. 
Am I thinking right?? 
Regards Alan. 
  
  
  ----- Original Message -----  
  
  
  Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2009 9:23 
  AM 
  Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Side 
  Thruster Options 
  
  
  Interesting! 
     
  Thanks Alec, 
  Dan H. 
  
    ----- Original Message -----  
    
    
    Sent: Friday, June 12, 2009 9:14 
    AM 
    Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Side 
    Thruster Options 
    
  
    
    Hi Dan, 
      
    I recall a past thread in the past on this topic, it 
    must be in the archives. Mine were air compensated when I bought Snoopy 
    but I switched to oil because the way the air compensation was originally 
    implemented, a little air bled into the cabin raising the interior 
    pressure. So I've run the same exact motors in both air and oil. 
    I cannot tell the slightest difference. They seem to have exactly the 
    same power, and even make exactly the same sound. In retrospect, I wish I'd 
    measured the current draw so I could compare that, but I'm afraid it's too 
    late. Either method works just fine. 
      
      
    thanks, 
     Alec 
      
      
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    If I were to do it again I would also go with a 
    Minkota or similar for me thrusters.  I built mine from standard 
    DC motors.  They're ambient pressure inside and have ceramic shaft 
    seals.  It was a lot to go through and not cheep when all was 
    done.  The worse is the weight of them.   
      
    Speed controllers aren't really necessary on 
    fractional horse powered thrusters like side thrusters because of the mass 
    of the sub.  It doesn't react fast.  Just pulsing them on and off 
    is sufficient.  Where I do recommend a speed controller is on the rear 
    thruster so you can slowly cruse, skimming the bottom.  
      
    Has anyone done any experimenting with oil filling 
    thrusters to determine if there is an increase in electrical current draw or 
    reduction in thrust do to the drag of the swirling oil and maybe some 
    floating of the brushes?  
      
    Dan H. 
      
      
      
    
      ----- Original Message -----  
      
      
      Sent: Friday, June 12, 2009 5:05 
      AM 
      Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Side 
      Thruster Options 
      
  
      Hi Brent 
      I am also planning on using Min Kota 's on my K350 I 
      am also thinking of splitting my front mbt for better view of my hydraulic 
      manipulator you got any thoughts. 
      All the best  
      glen south Africa 
      
        ----- Original Message -----  
        
        
        Sent: Friday, June 12, 2009 12:23 
        AM 
        Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Side 
        Thruster Options 
        
 
 
  Greetings James,
  I'm also 
        planning on installing small mostly off the shelf thrusters on the sides 
        of my K boat to reduce drag and simplify things.  I've been 
        planning on using 36 volt Minn Kota 101 saltwater thrusters, like Frank, 
        and I believe Vance are using and oil compensate them.  Last I 
        checked those thruster were running $250 each with the speed controllers 
        going for  $150 each.  
  I'll have to check my notes, 
        but I believe Karl Stanley is using 6 of the 36 volt Minn Kota saltwater 
        thruster that he has oil compensated, and has used down to 2500 
        fsw.  Two for vertical thrust and four in the stern. Are you 
        expecting to go that deep James. ;}
  I like the idea of using the 
        existing flexible shafts on some motors that Alec mentioned. I expected 
        that I would clamp mine on in a similar manor as Frank has done, since 
        I'm not sure of the long term saltwater durability of my favorite brand 
        of duck tape.
  I see the need to beef up the side thru hulls, and 
        was planning on looking closely at how Dan beefed his up. With the new 
        tangle guard configuration I'm planning, I don't expect the thrusters 
        will sustain any real damage unless the Euronaut or the like plays to 
        rough with my sub.
  Regards, Szybowski
 
 
 
  > Subject: 
        RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Subdate > Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2009 17:46:21 
        -0400 > From: Alec.Smyth@compuware.com > To: 
        personal_submersibles@psubs.org >  > Hi James, > 
         > 1. Do people just buy the standard Minn Kota outboard motor 
        complete > with the bracket, leg, controls, handle, battery etc 
        and just modify the > motor part? or can you get just the motor 
        and prop on its own? >  > AS: You can buy just the parts you 
        need cheaper than the whole thing, I > recommend 
        www.trollingmotorparts.com. >  >  > 2. Whats the 
        through hull design? A straight forward twin O ring > through hull 
        on the outboard shaft? >  > AS: I would not go with the 
        standard pipe because it just isn't strong. > In fact some motors 
        come with plastic pipes designed to be flexible so > the shaft 
        bends when you hit something, rather than break off. On the > side 
        thrusters, I've got heavy through-hulls. I did use the stock 
        pipe > on the stern thruster, because that one doesn't go through 
        the hull. The > through-hulls are just a SS bar stock with an 
        external shoulder to > prevent the thing from being pushed in, and 
        bored to whatever minimum > inside diameter you need for the 
        cables and potting. Do not just pot the > cables, you have to put 
        in solid conductors so the pressure doesn't wick > along the cable 
        strands. I'd recommend machining some vice flats on the > 
        through-hull too, for the day you need to unscrew a thruster that's 
        been > on there a few years.  >  >  > 3. 
        Compensation. Oil, ambient air pressure regulator? > I've had both 
        but like oil compensation the best because it's the > simplest 
        (not a single moving part). I just changed the oil a couple of > 
        days ago. I expected it to be laden with carbon deposits, but it 
        came > out looking like new despite being in there for 4 years. 
        Admittedly I > put very few hours on the sub, but it still 
        surprised me that the oil > came out looking as clear as the day 
        it went in. And yes, it WAS oil not > water that came 
        out... >  > :) >  > Alec
  
        
          
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