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Alec,
Most primers for use on metal are zinc based. I had never heard of
the melted, atomized zinc process that Jon described, but it sounds
intriguing.
There are a number of considerations other than UV resistance for primers,
top coats, and those that claim to combine the two: thermal expansion and
contraction, porosity and micro-porosity, abrasion resistance, flexibility,
chemical resistance, solvent-trapping (from skinning), and others. The
porosity of a primer lets good things in (like the topcoat for better bonding)
but it can also let in bad things (like algae) if not well sealed with the
top coat(s). At this point I wouldn't consider an all-in-one primer and
topcoat system even (ok, except) for a display piece that sits on a
shelf.
Several years ago many of the auto manufacturers tried combining the primer
and top coat with really crappy results. You've probably seen it
particularly on trunk lids and hoods. General Motors paid out millions to
have dealerships repaint customers' cars.
In a previous thread, Vance mentioned a sandwich of primer, epoxy, and
two-part polyurethane. The epoxy provided hardness, but is brittle, so not
the best for a top coat. The term "epoxy" is often used generically (and
incorrectly) to refer to any paint that is mixed with a chemical hardener
prior to application, so watch out for miscommunication. Actually we never
used the term "paint" either.
I don't have any specific recommendations as far as products go.
Jim T.
In a message dated 11/11/2011 10:59:34 A.M. Central Standard Time,
Alec.Smyth@compuware.com writes:
Jon,
I've always read a coat of zinc is the way to go, but I
couldn't find a
zinc product and the shop I used evidently didn't have the
capability of
yours. Let's see what the paint pros here say, but if it were
me I'd go
for it.
On a related topic, last night I was painting new
saddle MBTs and I
really like a paint Jim K recommended. He's in the
industrial painting
business, and it's what he used on Bionic Guppy.
Sherwin Williams
"Macropoxy". I can't comment on durability because I
haven't had it on
Snoopy for long. However, I like it because:
-
It's both primer and top layer. Or put another way, it's technically
a
primer but it looks good enough to be left as the top coat, so long
as
the sub doesn't live outside getting UV for extended periods. If
your
sub does live outside, you would need a UV resistant topcoat over
it.
- It's super thick. I mean REALLY thick. Great coverage in few
coats.
- It's a two part in equal parts, so hard to get
wrong.
Best,
Alec
The contents of this e-mail
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From:
owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org]
On Behalf Of Jon Wallace
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2011 10:28 AM
To:
personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-600
Reconditioning
Paint, etc.
I'm at the point where I'm nearly
ready for sandblasting and painting
and need to consider options. I
read the "cheap or proper" paint thread
from the archives but still have
some questions. The shop I'm
considering for the sandblasting can
also spray on a zinc layer
afterwards using an arc pistol fed with zinc
wire. It melts the zinc
wire, atomizes it, and then sprays it onto
the surface. Is this good,
bad, indifferent, compared to other
methods?
Jon
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