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RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Primers and topcoats



Here's the product sheet for Macropoxy. It sounds like a relevant product to me, particularly as the recommended uses section includes "marine applications", "offshore platforms", and "immersion use for salt and fresh water". Time will tell!
 
http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=STORECAT&doctype=PDS&lang=E&prodno=B58W620


From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of JimToddPsub@aol.com
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2011 1:41 PM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Primers and topcoats

Alec,
 
Most primers for use on metal are zinc based.  I had never heard of the melted, atomized zinc process that Jon described, but it sounds intriguing.
 
There are a number of considerations other than UV resistance for primers, top coats, and those that claim to combine the two:  thermal expansion and contraction, porosity and micro-porosity, abrasion resistance, flexibility, chemical resistance, solvent-trapping (from skinning), and others.  The porosity of a primer lets good things in (like the topcoat for better bonding) but it can also let in bad things (like algae) if not well sealed with the top coat(s).  At this point I wouldn't consider an all-in-one primer and topcoat system even (ok, except) for a display piece that sits on a shelf.
 
Several years ago many of the auto manufacturers tried combining the primer and top coat with really crappy results.  You've probably seen it particularly on trunk lids and hoods.  General Motors paid out millions to have dealerships repaint customers' cars.
 
In a previous thread, Vance mentioned a sandwich of primer, epoxy, and two-part polyurethane.  The epoxy provided hardness, but is brittle, so not the best for a top coat.  The term "epoxy" is often used generically (and incorrectly) to refer to any paint that is mixed with a chemical hardener prior to application, so watch out for miscommunication.  Actually we never used the term "paint" either.
 
I don't have any specific recommendations as far as products go.
 
Jim T.
 
In a message dated 11/11/2011 10:59:34 A.M. Central Standard Time, Alec.Smyth@compuware.com writes:
Jon,

I've always read a coat of zinc is the way to go, but I couldn't find a
zinc product and the shop I used evidently didn't have the capability of
yours. Let's see what the paint pros here say, but if it were me I'd go
for it.

On a related topic, last night I was painting new saddle MBTs and I
really like a paint Jim K recommended. He's in the industrial painting
business, and it's what he used on Bionic Guppy. Sherwin Williams
"Macropoxy". I can't comment on durability because I haven't had it on
Snoopy for long. However, I like it because:

- It's both primer and top layer. Or put another way, it's technically a
primer but it looks good enough to be left as the top coat, so long as
the sub doesn't live outside getting UV for extended periods. If your
sub does live outside, you would need a UV resistant topcoat over it.
- It's super thick. I mean REALLY thick. Great coverage in few coats.
- It's a two part in equal parts, so hard to get wrong.



Best,

Alec


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From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of Jon Wallace
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2011 10:28 AM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-600 Reconditioning


Paint, etc.

I'm at the point where I'm nearly ready for sandblasting and painting
and need to consider options.  I read the "cheap or proper" paint thread
from the archives but still have some questions.  The shop I'm
considering for the sandblasting can also spray on a zinc layer
afterwards using an arc pistol fed with zinc wire.  It melts the zinc
wire, atomizes it, and then sprays it onto the surface.  Is this good,
bad, indifferent, compared to other methods?

Jon




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