[PSUBS-MAILIST] Printed Kort Nozzle

Tue Nov 12 19:22:27 EST 2013

Alan,
That seems logical providing the void is large enough.  I found with building electrical penetrators that if the void is to small, air pockets are created.  I still think plastic is the way to go because fiberglass resin is only strong when supported by fibers.  The more fibers the stronger it is but less workable in a small void.  Plastic in liquid form flows very well and has strength without fibers.  I will bow to your experience though.
Hank

On Tuesday, November 12, 2013 5:09:38 PM, Alan <alanlindsayjames at yahoo.com> wrote:

Hi Hank,
If I can convince Alec that I know what I'm talking about he might
try this on his 3d printer. I am tempted to buy a printer but it would be
a bit premature as my CAD skills aren't at a level to export to it yet.
My latest thoughts are to build larger models up with hollow sections
that have external flanges to glue them together. Then pour a mold
release in to the cavity, swirl it around, tip the excess out & allow to
dry. Possibly a gel coat could be poured in, in a similar process. Then
fill with the resin & milled fibre. Finally when the resin is set, peel
or cut off the printed shell. Of course with a lot of things like this they
are easier said than done.
Alan

Sent from my iPad

On 13/11/2013, at 10:53 AM, hank pronk <hanker_20032000 at yahoo.ca> wrote:

Alan,
>sounds like you bin there done that
>Hank
>
>
>
>On Tuesday, November 12, 2013 12:20:18 PM, Alan <alanlindsayjames at yahoo.com> wrote:
>  
>Hi Hank,
>as an artist I made a number of molds out of different materials. 
>Silicone was best but cost N.Z. $70- a liter.
>You need to make a supporting structure to pour the silicone in to, 
>then on bigger molds, an external support structure for the silicone mold. 
>Some times the silicone molds need to be made in two halves.
>So not always easy. I thought about doing the kort nozzle with a mold,
>But it would be a huge amount of work with the mold built in several sections.
>There is probably not a lot on a submarine you would want to mass produce. 
>That's why I like the idea of this printing process for one offs.
>Also making the objects hollow will save on printer time & material.
>Alan
>
>Sent from my iPad
>
>On 13/11/2013, at 2:27 AM, hank pronk <hanker_20032000 at yahoo.ca> wrote:
>
>
>Alan,
>>How about take the printed mould and make it smaller, then use it to make a rubber mould.  Then you can make as many pieces as the mold can handle.   Unless you have lots of space you will have trouble with thick mixes.
>>Hank
>>
>>
>>
>>On Monday, November 11, 2013 8:43:53 PM, Alan James <alanlindsayjames at yahoo.com> wrote:
>>  
>>Looks good Hank,
>>has only 0.01 shrinkage. So if shrinkage were an issue it may be an option.
>>You could probably mix glass fiber with it to strengthen it.
>>Here is an epoxy product that is not quite half the price & has the fiber mixed in it.
>>http://www.ebay.com/itm/EPOXY-RESIN-VERY-HARD-CASTING-RESIN-LIQUID-FIBERGLASS-/310112944078?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item48342bffce
>>
>>It is a gel like consistency so may not suit every application. Has 0.1 shrinkage.
>>Again if I just use the resin + glass fiber, I can mix to my desired consistency.
>>Another thought that came to mind was to pour a mold release in to the printed shell
>>& drain it out so as to leave a film on the inside. Then pour in the resin & peel off the
>>printed outside when set. This would leave a fiberglass product that could be attached with 
>>epoxy to other structures.
>>Alan
>>
>> 
>>
>>________________________________
>> From: hank pronk <hanker_20032000 at yahoo.ca>
>>To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
>>Sent: 
>>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Printed Kort Nozzle
>>  
>>
>>
>>Alan,
>>look at liquid plastic on e bay.  It is cheap and there is one brand that cures at 180 degrees f.  This is polyurethane casting resin.  Nice stuff but maybe not for kort nozzles.  
>>Hank 
>>
>>
>>
>>On Monday, November 11, 2013 6:03:27 PM, Alan <alanlindsayjames at yahoo.com> wrote:
>>  
>>Hi Hank,
>>I'm not familiar with liquid plastic.
>>I use the West systems epoxy, where you have your epoxy & hardener & throw
>>In the other additives that give it various properties, like hardness. 
>>The glass fibre will give it a lot of structural strength & I can mix it in as thick or
>>as thin as I want depending on the section thickness / complexity of the form I want to fill.
>>Also price wise, mixing seems a lot cheaper than off the shelf pre-mixed items.
>>Alan
>>
>>Sent from my iPad
>>
>>On 12/11/2013, at 1:30 PM, hank pronk <hanker_20032000 at yahoo.ca> wrote:
>>
>>
>>Alan,
>>>this may be a dumb question,,, why not use liquid plastic.  The stuff I use is strong and shrinks almost nothing.  It also does not generate heat when curing.  This stuff is the harness of a hockey puck.
>>>Hank
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>On Monday, November 11, 2013 5:26:33 PM, Alan James <alanlindsayjames at yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>  
>>>To interested parties,
>>>I spoke with a 3d printing expert, Richard, regarding filling hollow sections of 3d printed items with
>>>fiber reinforced resin. He hadn't heard of it, but thought it had a lot of potential.
>>>He suggested watching out for heat generated in the exothermic reaction, as we had already
>>>discussed, and printing a roughened interior surface as a key for the epoxy, to stop the exterior 
>>>delaminating.
>>>I also spoke to an epoxy tech who told me epoxy only shrinks about 1/2% & with additives such as
>>>milled fiber the percentile shrinkage of the whole will decrease proportionate to the additive.
>>>So shrinkage may not be a major problem.
>>>Will do some experimenting.
>>>Alan
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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