[PSUBS-MAILIST] Aluminum Welding Technique Question

[James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles]

Did anyone get my response and attachment to this post about aluminium
welding?  I was braced for a firestorm of criticism but nobody said
anything.  Either everyone agrees, doesnt care or didnt get it....which is
it?  :)

Kind Regards
James F

On 23 April 2014 15:32, James Frankland <jamesf at guernseysubmarine.com>wrote:

> Hi All,
> I was going to write my 2 pence worth (UK version) in reply to this, but
> im just going to attach a sheet i wrote which covers all i was going to
> say.  I know there are a lot of expert welders on the forum, so this is
> just my personal take on it.  I can get good results most times.
> Personally, i dislike the "balled electrode" thinking.  It will ball to a
> certain extent of course, but I dont like it to become bigger than the
> diameter of the electrode.  With correct frequency and as little cleaning
> as you can get away with, i can keep the ball small and arc tight.  The
> only thing not on this sheet is that torch angle is important.  As near to
> straight up and down as possible, this prevents the rod turning into a
> sausage before you get it into the pool.
>
> Just my 2p.
> Kind Regards
> James F
>
>  On 23 April 2014 01:01, Steve McQueen via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>>  Thanks Dan.  I did use 100% argon gas but my tungsten has a red band
>> (2% thoriated).  I am also getting to know my machine settings so I'm sure
>> they where off. Lots to learn!
>>
>> Steve
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 7:28 PM, Daniel Lance via Personal_Submersibles <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>>> Steve,
>>> Are you using pure tungsten ( green band on one end ) and argon
>>> shielding gas ? . With the torch set on DC+ you will usually experience a
>>> tungsten melt down. Just set the machine on AC and run a pass on some scrap
>>> aluminum . You will get a balled end . Not to complicate things but a
>>> balled end is not exactly the most preferred condition in the world. But
>>> unless you have an inverter type machine with lots of parameter adjustments
>>> you really don't have much choice.  Alec is correct the amperage setting
>>> depends on the thickness of the material you are working with . If you are
>>> trying to join a thin piece to a thick piece its ok to preheat the thick
>>> piece first , just don't exceed 250 degrees F. Old oxidized aluminum is
>>> very difficult to weld unless the crusty white scale is removed . It should
>>> be nice and "shiny" before you start . And of course a little preheat never
>>> hurt anybody . Aluminum is a near perfect material for marine use , it is
>>> easy to cut , form , shape and weld . It can be painted , anodized or just
>>> left in its original mill finish.
>>> As far getting welding advice from Youtube , the only source I would
>>> recommend is "Welding Tips and Tricks" . This guy is really, really good .
>>> Hope this helps,
>>> Dan Lance
>>>
>>>
>>>  On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 11:49 AM, Steve McQueen via
>>> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>
>>>>     I attempted some Aluminum welding this weekend.  I needed to tack
>>>> 2 together pieces of a trolling motor mount I modified for my stern
>>>> thruster.
>>>>
>>>> I watched a video that said it is important to first first strike an
>>>> arc on DC+ for a few seconds to create a "ball" on the tungsten tip prior
>>>> to going back to the AC mode.
>>>>
>>>> It was unclear in the video if the arc was being struck on an Aluminum
>>>> piece or the Steel welding table surface.  Does it matter?
>>>>
>>>> Also they said the amp range should be set to 55-75.  Seem OK?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Steve
>>>>
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>>>>
>>>
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>>
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>
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