[PSUBS-MAILIST] Rolled steel

swaters via Personal_Submersibles personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Wed Jun 18 21:11:02 EDT 2014


Hank,
I totally understand. That is why I built Trustworthy first. I am ready for the next challenge. That is why I am looking for someone to help me with the inital enginering work and then spend the money on a expert to look it over and stamp the plans.
Thanks,
Scott Waters




Sent from my U.S. Cellular© Smartphonehank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:Scott,
The reason I bought Gamma was not because I couldn't build a sub, I bought it because I can not design a sub.  I paid for the engineering and got a sub with it.
Hank


On Wednesday, June 18, 2014 7:20:49 PM, via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:


Scott,
Nice to know someone who has friends at the bank.
Vance


-----Original Message-----
From: swaters via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Sent: Wed, Jun 18, 2014 7:10 pm
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Rolled steel

Dan,
On my first sub I spent about 2 years researching and learning before I ever pulled the trigger on starting a build on the K-350. My plan is similar on my next build for a deep diving sub which is to research untill I am 100% comfortable. I would like to start with a good design and finished prints and then take them to the engineer for reveiw. Enginers charge by the hour and are very expensive. I do this the same way when I am building my 40,000 square foot multi-million dollar stores where I have finished blue prints and store design done before I ever take it to the architect and my last store costs me $22,000 in architect fees. The first new store designI had done was $65,000. Hopefully that lays some insite in what I am doing. I am not going to be building something that is unsafe with unknown factors made from metal from a scrap yard and I am ok spending years researching and planning before I ever order the first part. I do apriciate you making sure I am being safe because I know there are lots of psubbers in the past who have not been. 
Thanks,
Scott Waters




Sent from my U.S. Cellular© Smartphone

"Dan H. via Personal_Submersibles" <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
Scott,
 
Please don't take this in negative way, and understand that we have never meet.  I don't know your skills, the skills of your wife, or your end expectations.  I congratulate you on recognizing that you're not a good engineer, if in fact you aren't.  Maybe you're even better then you think you are. I don't know.
 
Don't underestimate the planning and work that goes into in a sub.   Building any sub is a big undertaking, much less one for more then a few hundred feet of depth.  Most of all, don't look for cheap engineering.  You most likely won't get what you don't pay for.  If you're looking for cheap engineering help the BEST you're going to get is CHEAP engineering.  That may be ok with a go cart, but not with a sub. 
 
Unless you're confident enough in your own engineering skills to do your own design or even alter a pre-engineered design, you really should have a certified engineer do the work. Basically it means you're getting something the engineer is willing to stake his reputation on.  That SHOULD be good enough to put your life in.  You still may be playing with matches, but anything less, and your playing with fire. 
 
It's a lot of work and thousands of man hours building a sub.  There are plenty of other places to make mistakes in a build, and plenty other ways to get hurt in a sub.  If you're going to build, don't start out hoping you're doing it safe.  Either have it properly engineered or build a design that has been.  That's why so many take the less expensive and safe way of building a K sub.  The engineering has been properly done and it's stood the test of time.  Granted, it's engineered to older standards, but even that's far better then cheap engineering.   
 
Even refurbishing a sub isn't a small task if there are structural issues.
 
Just my thoughts on the matter,
Dan H.
----- Original Message -----
From: swaters via Personal_Submersibles
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2014 8:35 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Rolled steel

For the K-250 that I was looking at buying I believe it would be cheaper to build new rather than restore. Katy was looking for a sub to restore that wouldn't be extremely expensive. If the right oprotunity comes up she'll do it, otherwise she'll build a go cart and help me with my next project of a deep diving sub.
Thanks,
Scott Waters




Sent from my U.S. Cellular© Smartphone

Mark via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
Scott,

What made you change your mind on the K-250 project?  Are you looking at designing your own sub?

Thanks again for providing a quote for the rolled steel.

Regards,

Mark Widman
Director, GDSN & Data Quality
GS1 Global, USA
mark.widman at gs1.org
910-638-5229

Sent from iPhone.

On Jun 17, 2014, at 12:12 AM, swaters via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

Huge,
I was just going off of what the blue prints said for a idea of what that would cost and several members on psubs asked for me to share the quote. I don't believe I will be doing the K-250 project anyway. 
Thanks,
Scott Waters




Sent from my U.S. Cellular© Smartphone

Hugh Fulton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
Go with 3/8” thick it doesn’t buckle as much as ¼”  
The guys who welded my 5/16” said that it would have been half the time with 3/8”.  That is why ABS says minimum 3/8” I believe.
Best,  Hugh
From: Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org] On Behalf Of swaters via Personal_Submersibles
Sent: Tuesday, 17 June 2014 3:22 p.m.
To: personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Rolled steel
Hey guys,
I got a quote back from Arntzen on a K-250 hull.
The quote is to roll, tack seam, and reroll to round. 36"diameter and 48" long of 1/4" ASME 516 gr 70.
They will do it for $575 and a 2 week lead time.
Thanks,
Scott Waters
Sent from my U.S. Cellular© Smartphone


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