[PSUBS-MAILIST] Rolled steel

Douglas Suhr via Personal_Submersibles personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Wed Jun 18 20:54:11 EDT 2014


I'm so pleased to hear that your business is booming Scott. Keep that iron
hot, heavy and in the fire of America. As to your sub, I am very interested
and hope you'll keep me posted. Perhaps we could work together? I am quite
interested in diving deeper and feel there is a deep-diving vessel in my
future as well. I am planning to go out and see what is going on at
Sea-Magine one of these days. ~ Douglas S.


On Wed, Jun 18, 2014 at 8:19 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> Scott,
> The reason I bought Gamma was not because I couldn't build a sub, I bought
> it because I can not design a sub.  I paid for the engineering and got a
> sub with it.
> Hank
>
>
>   On Wednesday, June 18, 2014 7:20:49 PM, via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>
> Scott,
> Nice to know someone who has friends at the bank.
> Vance
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: swaters via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> Sent: Wed, Jun 18, 2014 7:10 pm
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Rolled steel
>
>  Dan,
> On my first sub I spent about 2 years researching and learning before I
> ever pulled the trigger on starting a build on the K-350. My plan is
> similar on my next build for a deep diving sub which is to research untill
> I am 100% comfortable. I would like to start with a good design and
> finished prints and then take them to the engineer for reveiw. Enginers
> charge by the hour and are very expensive. I do this the same way when I am
> building my 40,000 square foot multi-million dollar stores where I have
> finished blue prints and store design done before I ever take it to the
> architect and my last store costs me $22,000 in architect fees. The first
> new store designI had done was $65,000. Hopefully that lays some insite in
> what I am doing. I am not going to be building something that is unsafe
> with unknown factors made from metal from a scrap yard and I am ok spending
> years researching and planning before I ever order the first part. I do
> apriciate you making sure I am being safe because I know there are lots of
> psubbers in the past who have not been.
> Thanks,
> Scott Waters
>
>
>
>
>  Sent from my U.S. Cellular© Smartphone
>
> "Dan H. via Personal_Submersibles" <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> wrote:
> Scott,
>
> Please don't take this in negative way, and understand that we have never
> meet.  I don't know your skills, the skills of your wife, or your end
> expectations.  I congratulate you on recognizing that you're not a good
> engineer, if in fact you aren't.  Maybe you're even better then you think
> you are. I don't know.
>
> Don't underestimate the planning and work that goes into in a sub.
>  Building any sub is a big undertaking, much less one for more then a few
> hundred feet of depth.  Most of all, don't look for cheap engineering.  You
> most likely won't get what you don't pay for.  If you're looking for cheap
> engineering help the BEST you're going to get is CHEAP engineering.  That
> may be ok with a go cart, but not with a sub.
>
> Unless you're confident enough in your own engineering skills to do your
> own design or even alter a pre-engineered design, you really should have a
> certified engineer do the work.  Basically it means you're getting
> something the engineer is willing to stake his reputation on.  That SHOULD
> be good enough to put your life in.  You still may be playing with matches,
> but anything less, and your playing with fire.
>
> It's a lot of work and thousands of man hours building a sub.  There are
> plenty of other places to make mistakes in a build, and plenty other ways
> to get hurt in a sub.  If you're going to build, don't start out hoping
> you're doing it safe.  Either have it properly engineered or build a design
> that has been.  That's why so many take the less expensive and safe way
> of building a K sub.  The engineering has been properly done and it's stood
> the test of time.  Granted, it's engineered to older standards, but even
> that's far better then cheap engineering.
>
> Even refurbishing a sub isn't a small task if there are structural issues.
>
> Just my thoughts on the matter,
> Dan H.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* swaters via Personal_Submersibles
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> *To:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 17, 2014 8:35 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Rolled steel
>
>  For the K-250 that I was looking at buying I believe it would be cheaper
> to build new rather than restore. Katy was looking for a sub to restore
> that wouldn't be extremely expensive. If the right oprotunity comes up
> she'll do it, otherwise she'll build a go cart and help me with my next
> project of a deep diving sub.
> Thanks,
> Scott Waters
>
>
>
>
>  Sent from my U.S. Cellular© Smartphone
>
> Mark via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> Scott,
>
>  What made you change your mind on the K-250 project?  Are you looking at
> designing your own sub?
>
>  Thanks again for providing a quote for the rolled steel.
>
> Regards,
>
>  Mark Widman
> Director, GDSN & Data Quality
> GS1 Global, USA
> mark.widman at gs1.org
> 910-638-5229
>
>  Sent from iPhone.
>
> On Jun 17, 2014, at 12:12 AM, swaters via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>   Huge,
> I was just going off of what the blue prints said for a idea of what that
> would cost and several members on psubs asked for me to share the quote. I
> don't believe I will be doing the K-250 project anyway.
> Thanks,
> Scott Waters
>
>
>
>
>  Sent from my U.S. Cellular© Smartphone
>
> Hugh Fulton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> wrote:
>  Go with 3/8” thick it doesn’t buckle as much as ¼”
> The guys who welded my 5/16” said that it would have been half the time
> with 3/8”.  That is why ABS says minimum 3/8” I believe.
>  Best,  Hugh
>   *From:* Personal_Submersibles [
> mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org
> <personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org>] *On Behalf Of *swaters via
> Personal_Submersibles
> *Sent:* Tuesday, 17 June 2014 3:22 p.m.
> *To:* personal_submersibles at psubs.org
> *Subject:* [PSUBS-MAILIST] Rolled steel
>   Hey guys,
>  I got a quote back from Arntzen on a K-250 hull.
>  The quote is to roll, tack seam, and reroll to round. 36"diameter and
> 48" long of 1/4" ASME 516 gr 70.
>  They will do it for $575 and a 2 week lead time.
>  Thanks,
>  Scott Waters
>         Sent from my U.S. Cellular© Smartphone
>
>
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