[PSUBS-MAILIST] viewport questions

via Personal_Submersibles personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Tue Oct 28 18:38:09 EDT 2014


Vance,
Is the problem with Rain-X a function of interaction with  sunlight, salt 
water, or ...?  I recall about forty years ago there was a  paste available 
for use on Plexiglas aircraft windscreens, but I was reluctant  to risk using 
it for fear of doing it wrong and fogging up the windscreen.   It was 
basically a rubbing compound.  Covering the windscreen when stored  outdoors to 
protect it from the sun was well worth it to retard crazing and  yellowing.
Jim T.
 
 
In a message dated 10/28/2014 5:12:57 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
personal_submersibles at psubs.org writes:

Jim,  
It seems to me that Rain-X and  acrylic aren't the best of friends. I've 
never used it, anyway. As a point of  interest, we had the secondary shields 
on all the Perry boats originally, but  with 3/4" holes top, middle and 
bottom, which left room to stick a hose in for  rinsing. and the holes pretty 
much disappeared in the water and weren't a  problem, visually. I think they 
used a couple of dozen screws to put them on,  so we didn't do it very often, 
as you might well imagine.
Vance


-----Original  Message-----
From: via Personal_Submersibles  <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: personal_submersibles  <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Sent: Tue, Oct 28, 2014 6:01  pm
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] viewport questions


 
Hi Alec,
 
What is the average distance between the two domes?  Do you have any  type 
of mesh etc. over the 1/4" holes to keep debris out?  Do  you have some type 
of flushing system for cleaning the surfaces between  the two?  Since 
that's an ambient space I'm guessing it wouldn't take too  long to remove the 
outer dome when you want to do a thorough cleaning.
 
All:  Have you been using Rain-X on your view ports and domes?   A while 
back I saw some ads for another hydrophobic product that claims  to be 
superior to Rain-X, but I don't recall the brand.
 
Best regards,
Jim T.
 
 
In a message dated 10/28/2014 4:30:30 P.M. Central Daylight Time, 
_personal_submersibles at psubs.org_ (mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org)   writes:

Hi Vance,  


Actually it starts at 2" thickness, and at the time was the thickest  dome 
Greg had made. It was an iffy proposition, meaning he didn't know if it  
would turn into sub jewelry or just a deformed glob of expensive material.  
Luckily it came out virtually perfect. 


My hull is 31" OD, a little smaller than yours. The window is a 120  degree 
segment, just under 27" OD. So the trick is how to span the gap  between 
the 27 inches and the 31 inches. In the original design, this bow  window also 
acted as a hatch, a la Deep Flight. I made a massive Al ring 31"  OD, which 
telescoped on linear bearings and four 1.25" bars, driven by rams.  With 
ensuing redesign, the need for all that disappeared because I now have  a 
coning tower, so I've dropped the bars and rams, and the seat is now  mounted to 
the hull very simply with four big bolts. It will make a very  handy big 
door into the sub for maintenance purposes, but is overkill and  the window 
could be mounted by using part of your existing endcap and a  permanently 
welded conventional seat. 


One big decision is the window seat geometry. I like conical because  PVHO 
rates it for twice the life of square edge, but it requires fabrication  
capabilities that Greg didn't have for the window and I didn't have for the  
seat. So its a square edge for the simple reason that we could make it that  
way.  


I should mention the Al ring actually has two domes on it, one inside  the 
other. The 27" dome is structural, and the outside dome is 31" and only  
half an inch thick. The outside one is just for fairing, to protect the  
structural dome from abrasion, and to mitigate collision damage. The space  
between the two domes is free flooding, and there are 1/4" holes around the  edge 
of the outer dome to facilitate that. In a collision, the water would  
squish out through the little holes, so the thing is basically a shock  absorber.


As for calculations, I will paste the window calcs below. It is really  
just table lookups from PVHO tables, a simple cook book. The seat would have  
to be calculated with FEA. I didn't have FEA, so I did like the Greeks and  
Romans. You know why the Partenon is still standing? Try to do engineering  
calculations using Roman numbers! It was too complex, so they simply made  
everything massive. The seat is one integral piece of aluminum of ridiculous  
proportions, and it backs into a 516 gr 70 ring on the end of the hull that  
is an inch thick and two inches deep. I'm pretty confident that ring isn't  
going wobbly before something else does. 




Best,

Alec








----------------- pasted ------------------
 
Viewport Depth Rating per  PVHO-1a-1997
 
The following calculations and specifications are for a sperical sector  
window with square edge, to include an optional O-ring seal.
 
 
 
1) Determine Conversion  Factor (CF) 
 
Water temperature  =  75 °F (tropical conditions)
 
>From Table 2-2.4, CF = 7  



2) Given actual  fabricated dimensions
 
tmin =  1.73”
 
Di =  26.847”
 
\t/Di =  0.064
 
Entering table 2-2.10  with STCP, t/Di = 0.064
 
Solving for Critical  Pressure = 3,460 psi
 
Since Short Term Critical  Pressure (STCP) = CF x P = 3,460 psi
 
 
Solving for P,  P = 3,460 / 7 = 494 psi
 
\ Safe operating depth for window = 1,139  fsw






On Tue, Oct 28, 2014 at 3:48 PM, via  Personal_Submersibles 
<_personal_submersibles at psubs.org_ (mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org) >  wrote:

Alec,  


I hope this is still you.


I've been talking to Greg about a major retro-fit on my  K-350--a full 
hull-diameter dome segment viewport in place of the forward  elliptical head. He 
mentioned having built yours (the 1000' version) while  we were talking 
about thickness and whether to try and use something out  of Pete's junk pile.


While we were chewing the fat about this, he said that  to the best of his 
recollection, yours started at 1.5" thickness, and that  he could build it 
for me (maybe a 150 degree arc segment) for what I  thought was a very 
reasonable amount.


My problem (okay, one of my problems) is that I don't  really know how to 
do the calculations for these things. That said, I'm  wondering if a partial 
copy of yours might not do the trick for my  application (it would be tested 
much shallower, 500 feet or  thereabouts).


I don't know how you feel about sharing that kind of  thing, but I have a 
picture in my head of an acrylic bow K-350 with some  fairings and a 
Minn-Kota driven Deepworker style propulsion system. I  think it would make a great 
little boat, and so if I can get the viewport  and frame designed, then it's 
going to be built.


It's time to play if I'm going to. So, what do you  think?


Best Regards,
Vance  Bradley

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