[PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?

Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Thu Jun 18 10:55:31 EDT 2015


Also Alec,   I noticed your check valve overpressure valve in the photo section.  That seems like a great solution to the problem!   I guess I was not aware of that, does everybody have one of those?


Brian

--- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:

From: hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?
Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2015 05:25:30 -0700


personally, I always avoid welding a machined part to the hull.  I weld a flange or nipple to the hull then bolt or thread the machined part to that.  This is my solution to a lack of tooling and expertise.
Hank --------------------------------------------
On Thu, 6/18/15, James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

 Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?
 To: "Personal Submersibles General Discussion" <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
 Received: Thursday, June 18, 2015, 4:58 AM
 
 Hi
 Alec\Brian, Yes, maybe it would
 push in.  A flat step would probably be better like you
 say.  But maybe im over thinking it as usual.  Probably
 not required. Brian, I used the
 5\8ths bar because that's what was specified on the
 plans.  However, its also convenient for using a 16mm
 reamer for the bore. 
  regardsJames 
 On 18 June 2015 at 03:04,
 Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
 wrote:
 Oh cool !   Thanks Alec
 !    I owe you much over the years
 ! Brian
 --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org
 wrote:
 
 From: Alec Smyth via
 Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
 To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
 <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
 Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?
 Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2015 16:40:56 -0400
 
 Hi Brian,
 I tend to use quite thick
 through-hulls because its easier for me to machine the
 O-ring grooves into the shaft than into the insert. In my
 case its just a matter of the tooling I have on hand. If you
 have the tooling to put the grooves in the insert, half an
 inch is fine for many applications.
 Best,
 
 Alec 
 On
 Wed, Jun 17, 2015 at 3:22 PM, Brian Cox via
 Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
 wrote:
 Alec, James,  I'm
 using mostly 1/2" stainless rod through-out for most
 all of my hull penetrations ( for valves and flaps) ,  I
 noticed in the example it was a 5/8" rod,  Why such a
 heavy duty thickness?  Was that for a particular
 function? Brian
 
 --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org
 wrote:
 
 From: Alec Smyth via
 Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
 To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
 <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
 Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?
 Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2015 14:03:17 -0400
 
 Hi James,
 I think
 with the taper, this would tend to push in and jam. The idea
 is neat, however, and would probably work fine with a step
 instead of a taper. On the other hand, does an O ring sealed
 through-hull ever fail catastrophically? I've had the
 odd drip, but that's all I've bad as I've
 seen.
 Best,
 Alec
 On
 Wed, Jun 17, 2015 at 12:26 PM, James Frankland via
 Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
 wrote:
 Hi All Seeing as its a
 bit quite I thought I would show this idea.  Its super
 simple.... I have been thinking how
 you could stop a leaking through hull.  Thinking of K boat
 type 5\8th through hulls as in the
 plans. I believe Scott had a leak
 when he did his deep test due to a faulty O ring?
 
 Anyway, here is my idea.  It
 would take a little bit more machining, but not much. 
 Machine the 5\8ths bar with a taper on the protruding
 part and a taper on the top to help push the bar through. 
 (I did that on mine anyway).  The handle is made with a cam
 type end.  
 
 If you get a
 leak, you can pull the handle up.  The bar would be pulled
 up, forcing the taper to jam into the penetrator, hopefully
 stopping most of the leak.  I suppose you could even
 machine a matching taper into the start of the through hull
 to match? I suppose the bar could get
 pushed through and jam on its own.  That's a
 possibility. Pic
 attached. Kind
 RegardsJames 
 ​
 
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