[PSUBS-MAILIST] fiberglass

Wed Jun 8 10:58:01 EDT 2016

Hank.   What if you have to take the motors apart for anything?  They are
potted now and you get the same problem as I have\had??  I made a brilliant
picture.

The problem for me is getting the cables from the potted shafts onto the
spade terminals while trying to push the brushed back through a 2mm
hole.... Probably the same awkward bend as you mentioned.

If I did this again, I would probably have the cables threaded and going
outside and then back into the hull through a standard penetrator.  If I
read it right that's what you've done.  And I might even do away with the
rotating motors and have 4 of them static.

On 8 June 2016 at 12:39, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> O ya one more thing, to remove the original shaft, heat it up first, there
> seems to be some sort of lock tight on the threads.
> Hank
>
>
> On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 5:35 AM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>
> I have opted for drilling and tapping in penetrators rather then run the
> wires through the shaft opening.  If you go with your wires through the
> pivot shaft, I found that a two step process works for me.  First I put the
> wires through the motor opening and seal them in place. The epoxy does not
> need to go into the motor, so I just silicone the wires at the motor so
> epoxy does not run into the motor.  Alan had a great idea to use chewing
> gum.  Then I feed the sealed wires through the shaft and then thread the
> shaft into the motor and fill with either epoxy or casting resin.  I use a
> casting resin with super high compressive strength.   If you install the
> wires with the epoxy into the shaft first, it is a bugger to rotate the
> shaft into the threads because my motors have an akward bend that the wires
> have to make.  I have not used 101's though, just 50 lb thrust, but I think
> they are similar.
> Hank
>
>
> On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 4:09 AM, James Frankland via
> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>
> I made the rotating through hulls with 2x brass rods passing through into
> the hull.
>
> Personally, I find these motors and in particular these through hulls the
> single most time consuming part of psubbing.   Difficult to construct and
> maintain.
>
> http://www.guernseysubmarine.com/publication2_files/Page21512.htm
> http://www.guernseysubmarine.com/extended_files/Page24592.htm
>
> Biggest problem is that when you have filled the inside of the through
> hull with epoxy, there is no longer any adjustment on the cable.  So you
> have to make the cables fit without touching any part of the motor
> innards.  Some sort of modification needed im sure.  Plus the motors jam in
> the through hull tubes.  Oil compensation is messy and a nuisance.
>
> I have seen Emile's hubless motors and these are much better, but not
> available to us at the moment I don't think.
>
> I just took delivery today of 8 brand new AGM batteries...... :)
>
> Regards
> James
>
>
> On 7 June 2016 at 19:59, via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> How has everyone retrofitted the MinKota's to have a 1" rotating shaft to
> go through the penetrators?
>
> Thank you,
> Scott Waters
>
> >  -------Original Message-------
> >  From: Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> >  To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> >  Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] fiberglass
> >  Sent: Jun 07 '16 13:10
> >
> >  I have the Minn-Kota 101,s and would like to see how those who have
> >  done it have passed the power cables from the oil filled motor threw
> >  the fitting that rotates and passes threw the hull to the inside.
> >
> >  Rick
> >
> >  On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 1:53 PM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles
> >  <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> >
> >  > Brian,
> >  > something you could experiment with is applying epoxy to the glass
> >  > mat that
> >  > you want to adhere or on the sub itself & wait till it gets tacky
> >  > before applying it.
> >  > Then apply the rest of the epoxy later, wait till the last coat gets
> >  > tacky & add some more
> >  > glass cloth.
> >  > You could take your time with that process, but the epoxy is twice
> >  > the cost of the polyester.
> >  > Alan
> >  >
> >  > -------------------------
> >  > FROM: Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles
> >  > <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> >  > TO: PSubs <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> >  > SENT: Saturday, May 28, 2016 11:20 AM
> >  > SUBJECT: [PSUBS-MAILIST] fiberglass
> >  >
> >  > Hank, I wanted to mention that some of my brilliant upside down
> >  > fiberglass work did not go that great. I did not get the adhesion
> >  > that I should have, some place seemed fine but other areas I didn't
> >  > get the resin to soak in good enough. I may try something else next
> >  > time. I may put an initial coat of resin on the underside, soak the
> >  > fiberglass and then try to compress it up there some how with a
> >  > plastic mold release barrier.
> >  >
> >  > Brian
> >  > _______________________________________________
> >  > Personal_Submersibles mailing list
> >  > Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org
> >  > http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles
> >  >
> >  > _______________________________________________
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> >  > Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org
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> >
> >
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