[PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Light

[Alan via Personal_Submersibles]

Hank,
I had been sold on oil filling, but because these LEDs are so small
& don't put heat out the front, I can have a small diameter acrylic lens close to
the emitter. With the smaller lens I get greater depth capability for a given
lens thickness. Over 2000ft with this set up.
So with 2 extra O-rings & a good penetrator design I can avoid the messy
oil & tubing. I had also wondered wether the oil would discolour in time with
the heat.
Alan 

Sent from my iPad

> On 8/02/2017, at 6:25 AM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> 
> Alan,
> I would ditch the two side o-rings just for simple machining.  Also you give the acrylic a wee bit more clearance for expansion then.
> 
> And why are you not oil filling them?  seems so simple to just oil fill them.
> Hank
> 
> 
> On Tuesday, February 7, 2017 8:04 AM, Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> 
> 
> Alan, looks like you are making great progress on light.  A couple of comments:
> 1) If you plan to anodize, then I would chamfer the outside edges (85mm) to mitigate wear
> 2) I would use a small Subconn bulkhead connector rather than DIY penetrator.  These OTS fittings are cheap.
> 3) double o-ring seals are probably overkill
> 4) LED panels get very hot.  I worry about the plastic wire cover melting
> 5) Not showing any clearance for socket head screw heads
> 6) Not showing any clearance between the acrylic lens and housing
> 6) You would dramatically improve heat transfer away from unit if you made the fins thinner.  As designed not sure these fins and shell will dissipate 80W of heat when in the air.
> 7) As drawn I don't see any space for wire movement for makeup after you solder the leads and start to assembly the light
> 8) Don't see any RTD or thermistor for measuring temperature to enable the driver circuit to protect against overheating when unit is inadvertently turned on out of the water.
> 
> Cliff
> 
> On Tue, Feb 7, 2017 at 4:43 AM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> Rick, Cliff & anyone else that's interested.
> Attached is the latest version of my 80W LED light.
> In one drawing it shows a larger diameter top retaining ring.
> This is to enable mounting in to a recess. By using longer bolts the
> light can be mounted on a plate at the back.
> What I like about this design is I only have to do 2 small threads for screws
> that hold in the LED. This will also help avoid bolts seizing in threads.
>    I am machining a grooved protrusion in the base to key in the rubber compound
> for sealing the wires. Inside the base I will be epoxying the wires.
> I have gone to an acrylic lens that will be 10mm from the emitter. This is because
> the small flip chip LEDs I am using are cooler out the front. I can back off the power
> if 80W is too much for such a small unit.
> These could be used as navigation lights with lower power.
> It should be good for over 2000ft.
> Alan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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