[PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Light

[hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles]

Alan,I would ditch the two side o-rings just for simple machining.  Also you give the acrylic a wee bit more clearance for expansion then.
And why are you not oil filling them?  seems so simple to just oil fill them.Hank 

    On Tuesday, February 7, 2017 8:04 AM, Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
 

 Alan, looks like you are making great progress on light.  A couple of comments:1) If you plan to anodize, then I would chamfer the outside edges (85mm) to mitigate wear2) I would use a small Subconn bulkhead connector rather than DIY penetrator.  These OTS fittings are cheap.3) double o-ring seals are probably overkill4) LED panels get very hot.  I worry about the plastic wire cover melting5) Not showing any clearance for socket head screw heads6) Not showing any clearance between the acrylic lens and housing6) You would dramatically improve heat transfer away from unit if you made the fins thinner.  As designed not sure these fins and shell will dissipate 80W of heat when in the air.7) As drawn I don't see any space for wire movement for makeup after you solder the leads and start to assembly the light8) Don't see any RTD or thermistor for measuring temperature to enable the driver circuit to protect against overheating when unit is inadvertently turned on out of the water. 
Cliff
On Tue, Feb 7, 2017 at 4:43 AM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

Rick, Cliff & anyone else that's interested.Attached is the latest version of my 80W LED light.In one drawing it shows a larger diameter top retaining ring.This is to enable mounting in to a recess. By using longer bolts thelight can be mounted on a plate at the back.What I like about this design is I only have to do 2 small threads for screwsthat hold in the LED. This will also help avoid bolts seizing in threads.   I am machining a grooved protrusion in the base to key in the rubber compoundfor sealing the wires. Inside the base I will be epoxying the wires.I have gone to an acrylic lens that will be 10mm from the emitter. This is becausethe small flip chip LEDs I am using are cooler out the front. I can back off the powerif 80W is too much for such a small unit.These could be used as navigation lights with lower power. It should be good for over 2000ft.Alan




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