[PSUBS-MAILIST] PWM

Thu Mar 30 13:49:06 EDT 2017

Thanks Jim and Alec,

Do i have to be concerned about matching the PWM to the specific LED array
I buy as there are so many out there. If so, can someone help me do the
match up as I have NO electrical back ground. I do want to be able to dim
the lights from 10,000 lumans down as much as I want as there will be times
where I won't need that much and it will also be a power savings on my 36 V
battery bank for my thrusters.

Rick

On Thu, Mar 30, 2017 at 1:37 AM, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> Hi Rick,
>
> LEDs need a driver board to supply them with constant voltage and current,
> and Cliff's design includes an on-board PCB, inside the light itself, that
> does just that. The heat is dissipated by the housing, which is aluminum
> and has cooling grooves. Personally I opted for a larger off the shelf
> driver that will go inside the sub, because I didn't have much ability to
> solder the surface mount components and didn't have the need to miniaturize
> that was one of Cliff's design priorities. There are lots of drivers
> available, and I got mine on eBay like so many other components of the sub.
> This driver has a heat sink, but I don't expect it to heat up much at all.
> See eBay item 302203712954.
>
> Best,
>
> Alec
>
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 30, 2017 at 7:24 AM, via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>> Rick,
>> He was referring to a Pulse Width Modulator to adjust the amount of power
>> going to the lights.
>> Jim
>>
>> In a message dated 3/29/2017 11:29:44 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org writes:
>>
>> Alec,
>>
>> I just met a guy in California that made his own underwater housing and
>> LED lighting system for doing video and he is using an LED board that is
>> about 3" square. He has built a PWM for it so he can dim it down and says
>> it's a 10,000 luman 100 watt system that runs on 32 volts.
>>  I don't know what a PWM is but he said that I didn't necessarily have to
>> have one. I can step my thruster motor supply down from 36V but one of my
>> concerns is how to get rid of the heat. He didn't seem to be too
>> forthcoming with the system he built. I think the LED array was something
>> like $15 each on Amazon. How are you controlling the heat in your housings
>> and do you think I would need a PWM for my lite?
>>
>> Rick
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Mar 29, 2017 at 3:34 PM, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>>> My lights are done, I put them on Shackleton earlier today and they are
>>> wired through the hull with penetrators. However, the wires end inside the
>>> hull because I'm waiting for the drives to arrive, which will be installed
>>> inside the sub. I was able to test them with a lab type power supply on a
>>> table top, and must say these Bridgelux leds are like a little sun in a
>>> can, I love them. These two lights I made are 5K lumens, and I already have
>>> 10K lumen Bridgeluxes which I bought by mistake. So I'll test these, and
>>> probably make another set with those more powerful ones. If I do, the 10Ks
>>> will be the forward lights and the 5Ks will be oriented out to the sides
>>> for "peripheral vision". A dimmable driver is sounding like a good idea, or
>>> maybe just sunglasses!
>>>
>>>
>>> Best,
>>>
>>> Alec
>>>
>>> On Wed, Mar 29, 2017 at 9:10 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Thanks Hank,
>>>> Alec has been making good progress with Cliff's light.
>>>> Last I heard 2 housings were being anodised.
>>>> Any update Cliff / Alec ?
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>
>>>> On 30/03/2017, at 1:30 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <
>>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> You will be our go to guy for lighting!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 6:15 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
>>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Still building lights Hank,
>>>> have built a couple of housings but are doing a third revision &
>>>> hopefully this one will be perfect. I am pretty happy with how it's
>>>> going.
>>>> Am getting a different LED driver made up with PWM dimming.
>>>> Got off the motor project temporarily as my brother wanted one of
>>>> the lights for his boat. 😐
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>
>>>> On 30/03/2017, at 12:35 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <
>>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Alan,
>>>> Are you back to work on your motor?   or are you still building lights?
>>>> Hank
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 4:44 PM, hank pronk via
>>>> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks' Greg
>>>>
>>>> Alan, my answer is who cares if some water gets between the seals.  The
>>>> important part is to keep the oil inside the motor.  When the motor starts
>>>> up at the surface, there is significant centrical force that pushes the oil
>>>> out with the seal in its original orientation.  I should actually remove
>>>> one of the seals and just have one seal holding oil in, just like a
>>>> submersible well pump has.  Those pumps are VERY reliable.  Now having said
>>>> all this, I could be wrong ;-)   Stay tuned for test results.
>>>> Hank
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 4:31 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
>>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> How are you doing that Hank?
>>>> Are you compensating the gap between the two seals?
>>>> Otherwise you are in the same situation as the Minn kota motors
>>>> where one of the two seals will fail when you go beyond it's depth
>>>> rating.
>>>> Cheers Alan
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>
>>>> On 30/03/2017, at 10:40 AM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <
>>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Greg,
>>>> Good points, but I personally am not ready to give up on oil filling.
>>>> I have reversed one of the two seals in my new motors for Elementary.  One
>>>> seal keeps the oil in and one seal keeps the water out.  I am confident
>>>> this in addition to the compensation system will make for a clean leak
>>>> proof set up.  The ice is off the lake by my house, so my test lake should
>>>> be open in a week or so.  I will know then if my idea works.
>>>> Hank
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 7:03 AM, james cottrell via
>>>> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I have to say, I no longer think that WD40 is the best for compensating
>>>> things underwater. Over time it causes plastics and rubber to harden and
>>>> become brittle.
>>>> Silicone oil is better but the other problem with oil compensation in
>>>> general is that the smallest drop/leak makes a very visible oil slick
>>>> around your sub (not good). Most guys are using trolling motors and they're
>>>> not really tight enough to hold thin oil without leaks.
>>>> Back in the 90s I was using air compensation- and it actually worked
>>>> really well. As far as I know, Karl Stanley has also been using air
>>>> compensation for a long time without problems.
>>>> It's a clean system that's not hard to set up and a small bottle of air
>>>> lasts for many dives.
>>>>
>>>> Greg C
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ------------------------------
>>>> *From:* "MerlinSub at t-online.de via Personal_Submersibles" <
>>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>>>> *To:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
>>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 28, 2017 12:55 PM
>>>> *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40
>>>>
>>>> On a brushless motor it will maybe work with mineral oil.
>>>> On motors with brushes I have bad expierence with that.
>>>> Mineral oil is a big problem in a lake if a motor is even a little
>>>> untight.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -----Original-Nachricht-----
>>>> Betreff: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40
>>>> Datum: 2017-03-28T17:15:59+0200
>>>> Von: "Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles" <
>>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>>>> An: "Personal Submersibles General Discussion" <
>>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hi Carsten,
>>>>                         I did a small test trying to light the WD40 on
>>>> fire.  It's not as flammable as I thought it would be.  I think they have
>>>> improved it's non-flammability with new formulation. It's still somewhat
>>>> flammable however.
>>>> I will be using a light mineral oil in my motors.
>>>>
>>>> Brian
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:
>>>>
>>>> From: "MerlinSub at t-online.de via Personal_Submersibles" <
>>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>>>> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
>>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>>>> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40
>>>> Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2017 07:22:02 +0200 (MEST)
>>>>
>>>> Heat Vapor is may a problem with WD40.
>>>> May ensure that the compensating back is big to handle that..
>>>> We change to silicon oil for that reason.
>>>>
>>>> vbr Carsten
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -----Original-Nachricht-----
>>>> Betreff: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40
>>>> Datum: 2017-03-28T04:56:46+0200
>>>> Von: "Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles" <
>>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>>>> An: "PSubs" <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I just ran one of my motors filled with the WD40.  It seemed to be very
>>>> happy.  I mainly just did it to clean the carbon build up out of the
>>>> motor.  I was surprised how sealed the motor was, it is open at one end
>>>> where it mates to the gear box.  I was able to fill it up without it
>>>> leaking out anywhere.  That could be an issue later when I want the mineral
>>>> oil to fill all the voids.  I might need to actually drill some holes to
>>>> get some circulation .
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Brian
>>>> _______________________________________________ Personal_Submersibles
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>>
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