[PSUBS-MAILIST] SeaQuestor progress.

[Alan via Personal_Submersibles]

David,
great idea. For a longer complex form you could do this in several
segments that you then glue together.
One advantage is that you could "flip" the templates & get an exact copy
on the ballast tank on the opposite side. 
I am thinking you could cut the templates out of thin sheets of board scaled
up from sections from your cad program & glue them to the ends of the foam.
Some polystyrene suppliers have the ability to cut the standard block to your design
which saves you a lot of work. My local firm is limited to cutting it in 2 dimensions,
but it is a good start.
Alan
 

> On 7/01/2019, at 1:16 PM, David Colombo via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> 
> Hi Rick, the flashing is cut to the radius of you hull. (It might take a couple of pieces), depending on the lenght of your arc. Two sets will need yo be made. Then either barge cement the arc to each end of your foam block, or hold in place with screws. Then draw the hot wire against the form. On large pieces, this process best works with two people, or a large bow wire cutter where you can feel the wire agsinst the form as you pull the wire through the foam.  I will be taking video as i build and will share. 
> David
> 
>> On Sun, Jan 6, 2019, 10:22 AM Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>> Hi David
>> Could you expand a little on your first sentence? Don't understand. Are you saying to bend (form) the aluminum flashing to the shape I want the styrofoam and then draw a hot wire along it to set the cut in the styrofoam? The flashing must have to be rotated after each pass with the hot wire from 9 o'clock over the top to 3 o'clock to get the proper shape and radius for the mold so how do you rotate the flashing plus the flashing has to pivot on a predetermined axis dependent of what shape you want so you would have to somehow remove the styrofoam without the hot wire to attach the formed flashing to the pivot points on both ends of the styrofoam block?
>> Rick
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 8:39 PM David Colombo via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>> Hi Rick, use aluminum flashing that you buy from the hardware store as the form cut to shape on both ends of the foam block. Draw your hot wire across the form, and you can get the exact shape. Play with voltage on your hot wire to determine the speed and smoothness of your cut.
>>> I will be doing the same thing for ballast tanks to fit around my external ribs under the exoskeleton.
>>> 
>>> David
>>> 
>>>> On Sat, Jan 5, 2019, 10:05 PM Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>> David
>>>> 
>>>> Have you come up with a method yet for creating your hot wire rig? I have a chunk of Styrofoam that I want to shape for my MBT molds and the first layer has to be the OD of my hull as close as I can get and my concern was that if I use a hot wire/knife, the Styrofoam would shrink away from both sides of the source.
>>>> Rick
>>>> 
>>>>> On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 2:32 PM David Colombo via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>> Hi guys, I aquired 380cf (4) 4ft x 3ft x 8ft blocks of foam for the exoskeleton shaping process. First I need to build the platform for the (16) station ribs to be attached at 12" o.c. The station ribs have been cnc cut from 3/4" plywood and are hanging on the wall ready to be assembled.  Then build a hot wire cutting rig to slice the foam into 11.25" wide blocks. Then the shaping process can begin. 
>>>>> David
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