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In a proper design spiral you define the specs of what you want
the sub to do, sketch out what you think the sub should look like, and then
start a weight & balance spreadsheet to track trim and buoyancy issues for
all the components you want to add. For a 48” diameter hull, your main ballast
tanks may be too small (by MK1 eyeball) and your variable ballast tanks (VBT)
are too large. One properly sized VBT below the hull is ideal for weight and
balance. A 48” diameter hull will have launching and navigation to dive site
issues due to its large draft. You do not want your steering thrusters to low on the hull
otherwise they stir up a lot of bottom silt. Acrylic domes will be one of your major expenses along with
hiring a qualified welder (if you are not so). Greg Cottrell is the person to
speak with for acrylic work in the US. R/Jay From:
owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of skrewgun007@aim.com How would the
motors work on the bottom for turning or should they be center like the drive
motors. I think I hear you saying that you think that my main ballast tanks are
too large? I figured I would separating them into four separate chambers. same
for the trim tanks. The design as a whole its much like nemo. does anyone have
any plans available on that sub. The original plans where for a drive sub. It
seemed like a good idea to make the sub function in any direction with large
viewing areas from what some seem to have said that using mini kota motors provide
vast amounts of thrust. I was wondering if the standard trolling motor can be
run in reverse by simply changing polarity? The main pressure hull will be
about a four foot diameter and about a six foot length. The whole idea is too
share the experience so its a two man sub. Does anyone have any idea how much
acrylic domes cost to have made and where to find any diagrams of construction
and mounting of dome view ports?
You might consider placing your motors lower on the body.
The drive motors should be on the horizontal plane of your cross sectional
center of pressure (CP) and aligned with respect to the center of grav
ity/buoyancy so that your sub does not pitch while under power. The
motors on the top of the sub should be lower so that they are in the water on
the surface and thus effective for making turns. Don’t have the book handy to pull out as reference, but your
VBTs are probably excessive in size. While Ray’s comments concerning free
surface effects of a partially flooded VBT are correct, baffle plates will not
help much with an excessive angle with long, thin VBTs. You will be
either pitched up or down and having venting issues. R/Jay |